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Bienfaits papyrus pour la peau

What Are the Benefits of Papyrus for the Skin?

Native to the banks of the Nile, papyrus is a hardy perennial plant with long leafless stems. Since ancient Egypt, this plant has been used in skin care as a cellular extract for its moisturizing properties. It's I.N.C.I. name is "Cyperus Papyrus Leaf Cell Extract".

Published January 5, 2023, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer, — 5 min read

What Is Papyrus?

It is a herbaceous and monocotyledonous semi-aquatic plant native to Egypt. Appreciating humid and warm areas, the papyrus is a plant that needs a lot of light to grow. It is now endangered in the Nile Delta.

Manufactured from 2500 BC, papyrus was the medium of writing in the civilization of ancient Egypt. Royal symbol of Lower Egypt and of the life coming from the primordial waters, as testified by several elements of architecture and decoration, this plant was also the hathoric symbol of power (Hathor being the mother of all the gods of the Egyptian pantheon).

There are several varieties and subspecies of papyrus, Cyperus papyrus L. being the most common and the one used in cosmetics.

The Benefits of Papyrus for the Skin.

In skin care, papyrus is used in the form of a cellular extract. This is obtained through an environmentally friendly biotechnological process that aims to reproduce and multiply cells from plant cell strains in a controlled environment. This process preserves all the natural elements of the plant. Rich in essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals, the native papyrus cells thus obtained have a great molecular richness which offers them a complementary action to other plant extracts (vegetable oils and essential oils). The native papyrus cells restore the skin's hydration through two complementary actions:

  • Recharge Skin Moisture With Water by Stimulating Cell Regeneration.

The epidermis, the superficial layer of the skin, is composed mainly of cells called keratinocytes which are continuously renewed according to a cycle of approximately 28 days. Keratinocytes divide in the basal layer of the epidermis, which is made up mainly of undifferentiated cells, and migrate to the surface; they change their shape, lose their nucleus and become loaded with keratin filaments. When they reach the stratum corneum, they transform into corneocytes, dead cells that form a solid membrane (thanks to keratin) that is impermeable and protective. Keratin contains various substances, including the intracellular NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor). The NMF is composed of hygroscopic substances that allow the corneocytes to fix water: free amino acids (40%), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (12%), lactates (12%), urea, sugars and mineral salts. At the same time, during their keratinization process, keratinocytes release a fraction of epidermal lipids which, combined with secretion from the sebaceous glands and water from sweat secretions, form the hydrolipidic film, an emulsion located at the level of the stratum corneum. By promoting cell renewal, native papyrus cells contribute not only to the creation of keratin, which acts as the skin's barrier, but also to the manufacture of NMF and the creation of the hydrolipidic film, both of which retain water in the epidermis.

  • To Reinforce the Corneocyte Cohesion and Thus the Barrier Function.

The insensible loss of water is linked to the path that water takes from the inside to the surface of the skin before evaporating. This phenomenon is based on external factors such as temperature, humidity etc... as well as internal factors which are the state of the stratum corneum, the water gradient in the different epidermal strata and the integrity of the inter-corneocyte lipid network. Native papyrus cells boost the synthesis of lipids (free fatty acids, cholesterol, ceramides, etc.) present in the stratum corneum, the very ones that help maintain cohesion between corneocytes and thus the skin's barrier function. Thus, water has more difficulty evaporating and remains trapped in the layers of the skin for longer.

Find the native papyrus cells in our hydrating botanical assembly. This night serum regenerates the skin and can be used as a substitute for your regular night cream.

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