Cosmetics: In which products can silica be found?

The silicon dioxide, better known as silica (or silica), is a mineral-derived ingredient widely present in many cosmetic products. It is notably found in skin care, makeup, hair care, and exfoliants. Its amorphous (non-crystalline) form is favored for its varied functional properties and good skin tolerance.

In the facial care and sunscreen products, silica acts as a thickening, emulsion-stabilizing, and absorbing agent. It allows modulation of formulation texture, limits the perceivable oily phase on application, and improves UV filter stability, particularly in mineral-based sunscreens. A recent study on particles of biogenic silica (spherical structure) derived from sugarcane bagasse demonstrated their physicochemical stability, good in vitro tolerance, and potential activity in promoting pro-collagen synthesis, suggesting enhanced cosmetic interest.

In makeup, the silica (silica) is an ingredient used in formulas designed to deliver a smooth, matte and natural. It is notably found in loose or pressed powders, foundations and makeup bases. Its microporous structure confers an excellent lipid-absorbing capacity, which helps reduce shine in sebaceous-prone areas throughout the day. By absorbing excess sebum on the skin’s surface, it contributes to extending makeup wear and preserving a matte complexion without any greasy effect.

Beyond its absorptive capacity, the silica is also valued for its so-called soft-focus optical effect. It can scatter light uniformly, which allows the visual blurring of skin irregularities such as fine lines, enlarged pores, or minor imperfections. This property is due to the refraction and reflection of light by spherical silica particles or amorphous. Incorporating silica particles into makeup formulations could also enhance the perceived evenness of skin tone and the tactile softness of the skin.

These effects mattifying, blurring, and texturizing make it a sought-after ingredient in products formulated for combination-to-oily skin types, which aim to control shine without weighing down makeup texture. The silica also enhances the sensory feel of formulations: it lightens textures, improves glide upon application, and prevents the cakey buildup often unwelcome in long-wear makeup.

The silica is also present in many haircare formulations, particularly in dry shampoos and texturizing sprays. Its primary function in these products relies on its ability to efficiently absorb moisture and sebum accumulated on the scalp, thereby extending the sensation of clean, lightweight hair without the need for water-based washing. This action is made possible by the porous structure and the high specific surface area of certain forms of amorphous silica (such as precipitated silica), which can capture oily substances on their surface through physical adsorption.

In dry shampoos, silica particles are sprayed at the hair roots. They act like microsponges that absorb excess lipids and moisture, instantly restoring volume and freshness to the hair. Unlike some heavier or opaque absorbents (such as starch or clay), silica delivers a matte effect without leaving visible residue, even on dark hair. It is therefore highly valued for its invisible finish and dry feel.

Beyond its absorbent capacity, the silica also plays a texturizing role: it increases the hair’s surface roughness, facilitating styling and adding body to strands. In styling sprays or volumizing powders, this effect is particularly sought after to structure hairstyles without weighing hair down or making it greasy. Moreover, the use of silica in hair care has been reinforced by regulatory changes on microplastics. Indeed, since the phased ban on certain non-biodegradable solid plastic particles used as texturizing or exfoliating agents, silica has emerged as a more environmentally friendly mineral alternative. Its biodegradability and chemical inertness make it a safe, sustainable option for both users and aquatic ecosystems.

Sources such as the SCCS report confirm that synthetic amorphous silica is considered safe in cosmetic applications, including hair care, in the absence of inhalable nanoscale form. This reassures consumers about the safety of this ingredient in spray or powder formulations. Thus, silica is establishing itself as an increasingly indispensable technical and eco-friendly ingredient in the world of modern hair care.

Finally, in scrubs and exfoliating treatments, silica is used in granular or porous form to provide gentle, non-aggressive mechanical exfoliation. Silica particles work by friction on the epidermal surface, helping to detach dead cells from the stratum corneum and promote their removal during rinsing. This mechanical process stimulates cell turnover and helps refine skin texture, resulting in a more even, luminous, and radiant complexion. The size, shape, and hardness of silica particles can be adjusted according to the desired level of exfoliation. Unlike more aggressive abrasives such as crushed fruit pits or sea salts, silica allows precise control over particle size distribution, thereby reducing the risk of micro-lesions. Certain forms of porous amorphous silica feature a rough but non-cutting surface, making them particularly suitable for sensitive or redness-prone skin.

At Typology, you can find silica in two products:

• The scalp scrub: This exfoliating gel to be applied before shampooing contains 95% ingredients of natural origin. In addition to silica, it contains gluconolactone and jojoba beads. This scrub gently removes dead cells for a healthy and rebalanced scalp.

• The mattifying stick: This nomadic stick instantly mattifies the skin and durably regulates sebum production, without drying out the skin. It helps to reduce the appearance of pores and smooth skin texture.

• K.R MARTIN. & al. The chemistry of silica and its potential health benefits. The journal of Nutrition and Aging (2007).

• JOLIVET L. & al. L’intégration des produits dermo-cosmétiques dans la prise en charge de pathologies cutanées courantes à l’officine : mise en place de fiches conseils. HAL (2017).

• ANNEREN C. & al. Mesoporous magnesium carbonate for use in powder cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetics Sciences (2020).

• MADUREIRA A.R. & al. Biogenic silica microparticles as a new and sustainable cosmetic ingredient: Assessment of performance and quality parameters. Colloids Surf B. Biointerfaces (2023).