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Profile: Enoxolone (Glycyrrhetinic Acid)
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Details
Properties
Antibacterial: Regulating the bacterial populations living on the skin, particularly against Staphylococcus aureus, likely through disruption of the bacterial membrane integrity ;
Anti-inflammatory: Alleviating skin hypersensitivity and reducing skin reactions (irritation, redness, tightness, sensations of heat, etc.) by inhibiting the production of TNF-α and IL-1α, cytokines that are involved in the inflammatory response process, and by converting cortisone into its active form ;
Antioxidant: Protecting DNA, proteins, and cells from the effects induced by free radicals by stimulating the activity of an antioxidant enzyme, heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), and by inhibiting lipid peroxidation ;
Brightening/Pigmenting: Diminishing the appearance of brown spots by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis, and the growth of melanocytes or providing a tanned look by stimulating melanin synthesis, properties determined by the concentration of the active ingredient in the formula;
Protector: Slowing down skin aging by preventing skin sagging and the appearance of wrinkles through inhibition of the activity of certain matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3), enzymes that degrade components of the extracellular matrix.
Usage
Facial Care (antioxidant creams, soothing creams, sun creams/lotions/sprays, repairing lip balms, serums, masks, makeup removers);
Body Care (after-sun care, sun oils, tanning dry oils);
Hygiene (toothpastes) ;
Makeups (foundation bases).
Method of Preservation
Store in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated place, protected from direct sunlight, moisture, and heat.
Contraindications, Usage Precautions
Studies have shown that glycyrrhetinic acid at concentrations up to 6% is neither irritating nor sensitizing. Therefore, enoxolone is a gentle active ingredient, not subject to any restrictions by European cosmetic regulations. No side effects have been reported to date after the topical application of glycyrrhetinic acid.