What does the formula of an eyebrow gel contain?

What does the formula of an eyebrow gel contain?

Eyebrow gel is the ally of unruly or sparse eyebrows. Easy to apply, it helps to structure the eyebrows and gives an illusion of volume. While the INCI lists of eyebrow gels vary from one product to another, some components are common to all products. Let's discover them together here.

Summary
Published September 13, 2024, updated on October 4, 2024, by Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication — 9 min read

What ingredients can be found in a brow gel?

Eyebrow gels are cosmetic products primarily designed to define and set eyebrows, providing them with a well-groomed appearance throughout the day. They are generally appreciated for their ease of use and the immediate aesthetic enhancement they bring to the eyebrows. Depending on their color, eyebrow gels can intensify the gaze or deliver a very natural yet sophisticated result. These effects are made possible by the various compounds they contain:

  • Fixing agents.

    Fixative agents form the foundation of a brow gel. Their role is to keep the hairs in place and ensure long-lasting hold. These ingredients create a light film around the hairs, setting them without a sticky or rigid effect. Among the most common fixative agents are polymers, which are synthetic substances, and waxes, such as beeswax (Cera Alba) and carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax). These are particularly effective for tinted brow gels as they help to maintain the color while setting the hairs.

  • Pigments.

    In tinted eyebrow gels, the coloration plays a central role. It allows to intensify the natural shade of the eyebrows, slightly modulate it, or visually fill in the sparsely populated areas. The pigments can be identified by their INCI name starting with the letters "CI" for Colour Index: CI 77XXX. The main pigments used to formulate tinted eyebrow gels are mineral and organic pigments. Among the former, red iron oxides (CI 77491), yellow (CI 77492), and black (CI 77499) are particularly popular due to their stability and their ability to offer a wide range of shades, ranging from light chestnut to intense black.

    Synthetic pigments, on the other hand, allow for more specific and intense colors, complementing the range of natural shades. For instance, carbon black (CI 77266) is a pigment often used for intense black eyebrow gels because its shade is deeper than that of black iron oxide (CI 77499). However, it is less stable to UV light and its intensity may fade over time.

  • Thickening agents.

    Some eyebrow gels contain fibers or thickening agents that allow them to add volume to the eyebrow line. By adhering to natural hairs, these microfibers create the illusion of fuller eyebrows. The main thickening agents found in eyebrow gels are nylon fibers (Nylon-12), xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum), and plant gums, such as acacia gum (Acacia Senegal Gum).

  • Texturizing agents.

    Eyebrow gels also contain texturizing agents that allow for a pleasant consistency upon application and a smooth, natural result on the eyebrows. These ingredients also help to maintain the flexibility and suppleness of the hairs and prevent them from becoming stiff. They also contribute to providing hold to the eyebrows. Among the texturizing agents frequently found in eyebrow gels, we can mention dimethicone (Dimethicone), a form of silicone that forms a protective and enveloping barrier on the eyebrows.

  • Preservatives.

    Like all cosmetic products, eyebrow gels require preservatives, such as Phenoxyethanol or Ethylhexylglycerin, to prevent bacterial growth and ensure proper preservation. They also often incorporate antioxidants, like Vitamin E (Tocopherol) or Glycyrrhizic Acid, which help to extend the product's shelf life and prevent its degradation when exposed to air.

  • Active ingredients.

    Some eyebrow gel formulas do more than just shape and set the eyebrows: they provide care, protect them, and prevent their breakage and loss. Indeed, certain peptides found in eyebrow gels, such as pea peptides (Pisum Sativum (Pea) Peptide), can act directly at the hair follicle level and promote better hair anchoring. Some products also contain vegetable oils, which, by nourishing the eyebrows, make them stronger, more resilient, and shinier.

  • Solvents.

    The various ingredients mentioned above are dissolved in a solvent. Essential for achieving a fluid consistency, solvents also help to stabilize the formula and ensure a good distribution of pigments and fixing agents. The main solvent used to formulate eyebrow gels is water (Aqua/Water). In quick-drying formulas, alcohol is sometimes added, while it's more likely to be isododecane (Isododecane) in long-lasting or waterproof eyebrow gels. Finally, butylene glycol (Butylene Glycol) is sometimes found in eyebrow gels due to its humectant properties, which are useful to prevent the product from becoming too dry or crumbly throughout the day.

Analysis of the INCI list for Typology's eyebrow gel.

Enriched with pea peptides known for their strengthening properties, castor oil, recognized for its moisturizing virtues, and plant keratin, which reinforces the lipid cement and provides more resistance to hair by inserting itself between the scales of the cuticle, the fortifying eyebrow gel from Typology adds definition and volume to eyebrows and helps to take care of them. Available in 3 shades, it enhances their natural color from the first application thanks to the various pigments it contains.

INCI NameOriginFunction(s)
Aqua (Water)/Solvent
Hydroxypropyl StarchPlant-Based (Starch)Thickening Agent
Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic PolyglyceridesPlant-based Emollient
Dextrin IsostearateSyntheticFilm-forming
Glyceryl BehenateSyntheticEmollient, Emulsifying
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed OilPlant-based (Jojoba Seeds)Emollient, moisturizing
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) WaxPlant-Based (Carnauba Wax)Film-forming, thickening, emollient
PropanediolPlant-based (Fermentation of corn sugars)Solvent, Emollient, Humectant
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 EstersPlant-basedEmulsifier
Glyceryl StearatePlant-basedEmulsifier, Emollient
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed WaxPlant-based (Sunflower Seeds)Film-forming, thickening
Microcrystalline CelluloseSyntheticEmulsifier
Pisum Sativum (Pea) PeptidePlant-based and bacterial (Mechanical grinding of seeds followed by fermentation with Lactobacillus bulgaris lactic bacteria)Conditioner, Strengthener, Film-forming
Hydrolyzed Vegetable ProteinPlant-basedConditioner, moisturizer
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed OilPlant-Based (Castor Seeds)Emollient, moisturizing
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil UnsaponifiablesPlant-based (Olives)Emollient, conditioner
Cetearyl AlcoholPlant-basedThickening agent, emollient
Sodium Stearoyl LactylatePlant-basedEmulsifier
Benzyl AlcoholSyntheticPreservative, solvent
TocopherolPlant-basedAntioxidant
Glyceryl CaprylatePlant-basedEmollient, Emulsifying
Cellulose GumPlant-basedThickening Agent
Rhus Verniciflua Peel WaxPlant-based (Japanese Lacquer)Thickening, Softening
Shorea Robusta ResinPlant-Based (Sal Resin)Film-forming
Levulinic AcidSyntheticFragrance
Sodium HydroxideSyntheticpH Regulator
Sodium LevulinatePlant-basedConditioner, film-forming agent, preservative
ArgininePlant-Based (Fermentation of Plant Sugars)Conditioner, Strengthener
GlycerinPlant-basedHumectant
Dehydroacetic AcidSyntheticPreservative
Citric AcidSyntheticpH Regulator
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltratePlant-Based (Fermentation of Radish Roots)Preservative
Sodium BenzoateSyntheticPreservative
CI 77499MineralBlack dye
CI 77891MineralWhite pigment
CI 77492SyntheticYellow dye
CI 77491
Décryptage de la formule du gel à sourcils Typology

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