Pearlescents are often found in cosmetics, providing a shimmering effect to the product containing them, as well as to the skin. Here in this article is everything you need to know about pearlescents.
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Everything there is to know about pearlescents.
Summary
- How is mother-of-pearl produced?
- What are the skin properties of mother-of-pearl?
- What are the side effects and precautions related to the use of pearlescent pigments?
- Sources
Published June 18, 2024,
updated on June 18, 2024,
by
Kahina, Scientific Editor
—
4 min read
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How is mother-of-pearl produced?
Mica, also known as mother of pearl, is a silicate mineral found in various substances, including crystals and granite. Mica is widely used in the cosmetic industry to give beauty products a metallic and shiny appearance, and it adds a sparkle to colored cosmetic products. The concentrations of pigments vary depending on the product, ranging from 1% to 60%.
There exists mica of natural origin and mica of synthetic origin.
Natural mica.
Natural mica is derived from raw ores. The chunks are then ground and sieved to produce a fine powder.
Once the mica ore is ground into powder, purification methods are used to remove impurities, such as flotation and magnetic separation. Flotation uses chemical reagents to selectively separate mica from other minerals, while magnetic separation uses magnetic fields to attract and isolate magnetic minerals, leaving behind a purified mica powder.
The final step in the refining process involves drying and grading the refined mica powder. Drying removes any residual moisture, ensuring its stability and shelf life. Once dried, the mica powder is graded based on particle size and purity, ensuring the consistency and quality of the ingredient.
Synthetic mica.
Synthetic mica is typically produced through a fusion process, using silica sand (SiO2), magnesium oxide (MgO), aluminum oxide (Al2O3), potassium silicofluoride (K2SiF6), or sodium silicofluoride (Na2SiF6). These materials are heated, melted, cooled, and crystallized. This method results in a crystal of high purity.
What are the skin properties of mother-of-pearl?
We often hear that pearlescents, such as micas, when included in cosmetic products, could make the skin smoother, or even have effects against the acceleration of skin aging.
However, it's important to note that no study has proven any effect of micas on the skin. Micas are not active ingredients.
The only proven utility of micas included in cosmetic products is their aesthetic aspect. Indeed, their ability to reflect light allows them to give a radiant, luminous appearance to the skin.
What are the side effects and precautions related to the use of pearlescent pigments?
The daily use of mica in skincare products should not result in harmful side effects. Indeed, this ingredient is considered to be safe for use. However, as we do not all react the same way to cosmetic products, minor adverse effects may appear in allergic individuals. Mica can potentially irritate the skin and eyes, causing itching and redness.
As a precaution, you can perform a skin test of the product containing micas by applying a small amount of the product in the crook of your elbow, on the inside of your wrist, or behind your ear, then wait 48 hours to observe any possible skin reactions.
The available information regarding the safety of micas for the skin of pregnant and breastfeeding women, as well as children, is not sufficient to make a definitive statement on the subject. Therefore, we advise you to consult with your doctor before using a cosmetic product containing micas if you are in a similar situation.
Sources
OHTA S-I. Synthetic Mica and Its Applications. Clay Science (2006).
TOPOROWSKA M. & al. Health Effects of Dyes, Minerals, and Vitamins Used in Cosmetics. Women (2021).
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