Typology: where does the smell of cosmetics come from?

Unlike many cosmetic products, Typology skincare contains no added fragrance.

This choice of formulation is based on a desire to limit exposure to certain substances known for their allergenic potential. While adding fragrances to cosmetics does produce pleasant scents, these molecules are very often allergenic and can trigger skin reactions such as redness, irritation, or itching, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin. In the absence of these masking agents, the perceived odor therefore corresponds directly to that of the raw materials used.

The scent of Typology treatments therefore comes largely from the ingredients themselves, particularly when they are of natural origin.

Vegetable oils, for example, have their own distinct olfactory signatures : plum oil, notably present in our Nourishing Face Cream L42, naturally has an almond-like note, while other oils may have more woody scents depending on their lipid profile. Hydrosols and certain essential oils also contribute to the overall odor of formulations. For example, lavender essential oil is recognizable by its floral scent, while tea tree essential oil has a more medicinal and herbal odor, and lemon or sweet orange essential oil brings fresh, zesty notes. Others, such as geranium essential oil, have a slightly rose-like floral scent, and patchouli essential oil is characterized by deeper, earthier notes.

Certain cosmetic actives are also known for their characteristic odor. This is particularly the case for sulfur, used for its purifying properties but whose smell is especially strong. To reduce its olfactory impact, masking agents such as zinc ricinoleate can be incorporated to partially capture these volatile compounds. This is a formulation choice we made for our Imperfection Face Scrub L73. Other ingredients, such as lactic acid, present in our Enlarged Pores and Blackheads Mask L71, also have a recognizable odor, sometimes associated with slightly acidic notes, linked to their chemical structure. These odors, although surprising, are intrinsic to the molecules used.

Preservative systems can also influence a product’s odor. Benzyl alcohol, for example, has a naturally almond-like smell, while O-cymen-5-ol can suggest more synthetic notes. These compounds are nevertheless used at low concentrations to ensure the microbiological stability of formulations. Their olfactory perception, although secondary, can still be detected in the absence of added fragrance.

Good to know : O-cymen-5-ol is notably one of the components of our 9-Ingredient Face Cream D41.

In cleansing products, the smell can also be related to surfactants, that is, to the agents responsible for the cleansing action. Certain surfactants, such as cetyl phosphate, can have an unpleasant odor. This perception becomes more pronounced as their concentration in cleansers increases, which is much higher than in moisturizing creams. This is why, at Typology, we decided to incorporate essential oils into our Purifying Face Cleansing Gel L12 and our Exfoliating Face Cleansing Gel L13.

Furthermore, the surfactants used in cleansing products generally have a high HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), which means they have a strong affinity for water. This property allows them to dissolve easily in the aqueous phase and to form micelles capable of surrounding and removing lipophilic impurities, such as sebum and makeup residues. This micellar structure and their hydrophilic nature also promote the dispersion of certain odorant molecules in water, which can make their odor more noticeable, especially when they are used at high concentrations in cleansing formulas.

Conversely, the emulsifiers found in creams have a more intermediate HLB, allowing them to stabilize both an aqueous phase and an oil phase. They position themselves at the interface between these two phases, with a hydrophilic portion oriented toward the water and a lipophilic portion oriented toward the oily components. This organization influences the olfactory perception of the formula: odorant compounds, which are often lipophilic, are partly retained in the oil phase or trapped within the emulsion structure, which can reduce their volatility and thus their immediate perception.

In other words, with the same composition, a given odorant molecule may seem more pronounced in a cleansing gel than in a cream, because of the way it is distributed and released within the formula.

Finally, it is important to remember that the perception of an odor is largely subjective and depends greatly on what we are used to. Many everyday products contain added fragrances designed to standardize their smell and mask the sometimes harsher odors of raw materials. Conversely, a fragrance-free formula reveals the intrinsic smell of its ingredients, whether they are vegetable oils, active substances, or certain excipients. These odors may therefore seem surprising, simply because they fall outside our usual olfactory frame of reference. It is neither a formulation flaw nor a sign that the product has deteriorated, but rather a reflection of its composition and of formulation choices intended to limit unnecessary additives, particularly those likely to increase the risk of irritation in sensitive skin.

• AL-BAHRANI H. & al. Emulsifiers used in designing emulsion based drilling fluids. Journal of Chemistry (2018).

• MAGGI F. & al. Essential oils as natural sources of fragrance compounds for cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Molecules (2021).

• MAZZUCCO A. & al. Odor masking, stability and sensoriality: Researching background agents in complex systems for infinite solutions. International Journal of Chemistry and Research (2020).

• ROMERO A. & al. Sensorial evaluation and aroma of vegetable oils. Oil and Oilseed Processing: Opportunities and Challenges (2021).