How is coconut oil beneficial for dry skin?

Dry skin is characterized by a decrease in lipids present in the stratum corneum and by an alteration of the epidermal barrier function. This condition leads to an increase in transepidermal water loss, which is responsible for sensations of tightness, roughness, and flaking. In addition to a genetic predisposition, several factors can contribute to this skin dryness : exposure to cold or wind, frequent washing, the use of harsh cleansing products, and skin aging. When the skin’s lipid barrier is weakened, the epidermis becomes more vulnerable to external aggressors and struggles to maintain an optimal level of hydration.

Coconut oil can be an interesting addition to a skincare routine for dry skin.

Indeed, this vegetable oil, rich in triglycerides, has emollient properties and a rich texture that enables it to strengthen the hydrolipidic film of the skin. When applied topically, coconut oil forms an occlusive film on the surface of the epidermis that slows down water loss, a highly relevant mechanism for dry skin, whose skin barrier is often impaired. Several scientific studies have examined the effects of coconut oil on hydration and the barrier function of dry skin and have demonstrated its relevance.

A clinical study evaluated the effectiveness of coconut oil in moisturizing the skin of 34 people with mild to moderate xerosis. They were divided into two groups and applied either coconut oil or mineral oil to their legs twice a day for two weeks. The researchers measured skin hydration using a corneometer and the amount of surface lipids using a sebumeter. The results showed that both oils significantly improved skin hydration and increased lipid levels, suggesting a partial restoration of the skin barrier. The clinical assessment of dryness symptoms—such as flaking, roughness, or itching—also showed improvement in participants from both groups, which was slightly better in the group that used coconut oil.

These data therefore support the idea that coconut oil may be an interesting option for improving hydration and comfort in dry skin.

This study is not an isolated case. Other research has examined the relevance of coconut oil in skin conditions where dryness and impairment of the skin barrier play a central role, such as atopic dermatitis. One notable example is a 2013 study involving 117 patients with eczema who were divided into two groups. The first group applied virgin coconut oil, while the second used mineral oil for eight weeks. The researchers assessed changes in disease severity using the SCORAD index (SCORing of Atopic Dermatitis), as well as several parameters related to skin barrier function, including transepidermal water loss and skin hydration measured by capacitance.

The results showed a significant improvement in both groups, but the effects observed with coconut oil were markedly more pronounced.

The SCORAD index decreased by an average of 68.23% in the group treated with coconut oil, compared with 38.13% in the group that received mineral oil. In addition, transepidermal water loss decreased markedly in the “coconut oil” group (dropping on average from 26.68 to 7.09), while skin hydration increased significantly. Coconut oil therefore appears able to improve the skin barrier function, including in individuals with atopic eczema, a dermatosis associated with pronounced skin dryness.

Available studies suggest that coconut oil may be beneficial for dry skin.

However, when used on its own, it cannot truly replace a moisturizing product specifically formulated for this skin type. Creams designed for dry skin are in fact based on the combination of several complementary ingredients: humectants, which are able to attract water into the stratum corneum; emollients, which soften the skin and help restore the lipid organization of the stratum corneum; and film-forming agents that limit water evaporation. Coconut oil acts primarily as an emollient and an occlusive agent, but it does not provide hydration by itself.

Even though skincare products designed for dry skin generally contain more lipids than those formulated for oily skin, the presence of an aqueous phase and humectant agents remains essential to maintain an adequate level of skin hydration. In this context, coconut oil can be used as an interesting complement rather than as a substitute for a moisturizer. Applied at the end of the skincare routine, after the moisturizing product, it can help seal in moisture by strengthening the hydrolipidic film and limiting water loss. This provides both complete hydration and nourishment.

• VERALLO-ROWELL V. M. & al. A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. Dermatology (2004).

• EVANGELISTA M. T. P. & al. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology (2014).

• KAPADIYA P. K. & al. Medicinal benefits of coconut oil. International Journal of Life Sciences Research (2014).

• SODIKIN M. & al. The effectiveness of massage and virgin coconut oil (VCO) combination therapy on reducing itching in diabetes mellitus. Jurnal Kesehatan Komunitas Indonesia (2023).

• GEW L. T. & al. A comprehensive review of plant-based cosmetic oils (virgin coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil, and jojoba oil): Chemical and biological properties and their cosmeceutical applications. ACS Omega (2024).