Commonly used in the formulation of skincare, haircare, eyelash, and nail products, film-forming agents play a crucial protective role. But how do we define them? And what exactly is their function? Discover more information here about film-forming agents and their use in cosmetics.
Film-forming agents: what are they?
Published on October 3, 2024, updated on January 9, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading
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Cosmetics: What is a film-forming agent?
Frequently used in cosmetic formulation, film-forming agents are ingredients added to skincare products to enhance their protective effect. They work by creating a film on the skin, nails, or hair, which helps to slow down water evaporation and restore the hydrolipidic film naturally present on the surface of biological structures. Composed of a mix of water and sebum, this film serves as a barrier; it restricts the entry of pathogens and impurities into the skin, hair, or nails while retaining water in the stratum corneum, the cuticle, or the nail plate.
Film-forming agents are surface-active substances that provide protective and moisturizing effects on the exterior of biological structures.
The barrier formed by film-forming agents thus allows hair to better resist breakage and be less prone to split ends. At the skin level, the skin gains elasticity, while the nails remain strong and shiny. In addition to their moisturizing virtues, film-forming agents leave a feeling of softness on the epidermis, without a greasy or sticky effect. They also allow for moisturizing the hair without weighing it down and strengthening the nails without softening them.
The incorporation of film-forming ingredients in cosmetic formulation also aids in extending the product's action on the skin, hair, eyelashes, or even nails. Indeed, by providing an adhesive base, they allow balms, lotions, sunscreens, or even makeup products to have a better hold throughout the day and to better resist rubbing, humidity, and perspiration. This adhesive action of the film-forming agents also provides more effective control of the release of active ingredients, ensuring uniform distribution and gradual absorption.
Sometimes referred to as texture agents, film-forming agents can be hydrophilic, i.e. have an affinity for water, or hydrophobic, repelling water. Hydrophilic agents, such as carbohydrates, capture water molecules to create a hydrogel and form a hydrated film on the skin's surface. Hydrophobic film-forming agents, such as silicones, mineral or vegetable oils, and waxes, have a more occlusive effect and block transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by resisting water molecules. Some examples of film-forming agents commonly found in cosmetics are presented in the table below.
| Film-forming Agent | Nature | Main Uses |
|---|---|---|
| Vinylpyrrolidone and Vinyl Acetate Copolymers | Synthetic Polymers | Used in hair sprays to form a flexible and long-lasting film that helps set the hair. |
| Polyquaternium-10 | Synthetic Polymer | Used in conditioners and hair treatments to condition, smooth the hair, and reduce frizz. |
| Dimethicone | Synthetic Silicone | Used in moisturizing creams, serums, and hair care products to smooth, protect, and form a barrier against moisture. |
| Cyclopentasiloxane | Synthetic Silicone | Used in makeup bases and serums to create a light protective film. |
| Beeswax | Natural Wax | Used in balms, lipsticks, and thick creams to form an occlusive film that protects the skin and retains moisture. |
| Carnauba Wax | Natural Wax | Used in lipsticks and mascaras to enhance durability and shine, and to form a protective film. |
| Rice Wax | Natural Wax | Used in lip care and creams to enhance texture and provide a protective film-forming effect. |
| Collagen Hydrolysate | Bovine, Porcine, or Marine-derived Peptides | Used in creams and serums to form a moisturizing and protective film on the skin, which also helps to improve its elasticity. |
| Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins | Natural Origin Proteins | Used in hair care to form a moisturizing film and smooth the hair. |
Les principaux agents filmogènes utilisés en cosmétique.
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Sources
DRAELOS Z. K. Cosmetics: An overview. Current Problems in Dermatology (1995).
MURTHY N. & al. Stability of Organoleptic Agents in Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics. An Official Journal of the American Association of Pharmaceutical Scientists (2017).
MAIA CAMPOS P. & al. Application of biophysical and skin imaging techniques to evaluate the film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2019).
