How to use arbutin acid?

Arbutin acid, or alpha-arbutin, is a safe and natural alternative to hydroquinone, a whitening agent banned in many countries, including those in Europe since March 2001, due to its carcinogenic potential.

The effectiveness of thealpha-arbutin on pigmentation spots is due to its high affinity with the active site of tyrosinase, the enzyme stimulating the synthesis of melanin in the skin. As a reminder, melanin is the pigment responsible for the brown color; when it is produced in excess in a localized area, it leads to the formation of persistent brown spots on the skin surface. This phenomenon has a name: thehyperpigmentation. Thus, alpha-arbutin inhibits the overproduction of melanin and fades existing spots, as well as any potential skin marks left by blemishes.

Furthermore, this active ingredient has a antioxidant power that aids the skin in defending against the attacks of free radicals, highly reactive molecules that accelerate skin aging.

Acne marks, sun spots, and pregnancy masks are all skin imperfections that can affect the uniformity of the complexion and sometimes cause a certain discomfort in the affected individuals. In order to fade these various marks, different galenics contain alpha-arbutin and are now distributed in the cosmetic market. This active ingredient can thus be found in creams, lotions, tonics, aqueous serums, or even night masks.

To observe an effect on the skin, arbutin acid must be at least 0.2% concentrated in a cosmetic formula. Generally, serums are the formulations that have a higher concentration of active ingredients, and therefore, in alpha-arbutin.

Note : According to a report published in 2015, theSCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety)considers the use of alpha-arbutin in cosmetic products to be safe for consumers at a concentration of up to 2% in facial creams and up to 0.5% in body lotions.

• Areas of application:

  A treatment with alpha-arbutin can be applied to the entire face , avoiding the mouth, lips, or eyes. It can also be used locally, only on areas affected by hyperpigmentation as a spot treatment.

• Application Frequencies:

  Thearbutin acid is not a photosensitizing species: it does not increase skin sensitivity to the UV rays of the sun. Thus, you can apply a skincare product containing this active ingredient morning and evening. However, make sure to protect your skin every morning with a broad-spectrum sun protection.

• Methods of application according to the galenic forms used:

  Typically, serums are more concentrated in active ingredients than creams. To apply a serum, pour 3 to 7 drops into the palm of your hands. Using your fingertips, apply the product by evenly distributing it across your face and neck. Gently massage it in. Some serums have a high content of alpha-arbutin and are thus used as a targeted treatment to combat stubborn hyperpigmentation. As for the application of an alpha-arbutin cream, take a small amount of the product and spread it over your entire face. Massage it in gently. If you're using a body cream, apply a sufficient amount to dark areas, such as the inner thighs, underarms, bikini line...

The hyperpigmentation serum contains 2% alpha-arbutin acid, as well as lemon extract known for its brightening properties. It helps to reduce the appearance of brown spots and also acne marks. We advise you to apply a few drops morning and evening on your previously cleaned and dried face. Then, gently massage the face and neck in circular motions. Afterwards, apply a moisturizing cream suitable for your skin type. We recommend using this serum daily for a period of at least 6 weeks in order to observe its effects.

Note : This serum can also be applied to other parts of the body, such as the back, which is often affected by acne, or the underarms, which can darken due to repeated shaving.

• CSSC Report on Alpha-Arbutin (July 22, 2015).

• KAULPIBOON J. & others. Optimization of Amylomaltase for the Synthesis of Alpha-Arbutin Derivatives as Tyrosinase Inhibitors. Carbohydrate Research (2020).

• MOHAMMADAMINI H. & al. A comprehensive review of the therapeutic potential of alpha-arbutin. Phytotherapy Research (2021).