Is glycolic acid a solution for oily hair?

Glycolic acid, derived from fruit sources, has shown many benefitial properties over the past years, such as exfoliation, inhibiting melanin production, stimulating collagen production, enhancing the skin’s barrier and many more…. So, how can these benefits be applied to oily hair care?

Sebum, the oily substance produced by sebaceous glands, plays a crucial role in keeping the skin and scalp moisturized. However, excess sebum production, often driven by hormonal factors such as androgens, can result in greasy hair, clogged follicles, and discomfort. While glycolic acid doesn’t directly inhibit sebum production, it could still play a significant role in managing oily hair in several ways:

• Exfoliation and Sebum Control: Glycolic acid’s primary function as an exfoliant helps remove dead skin cells from the scalp. By clearing out clogged pores and follicles, it prevents buildup and accelerates cell turnover without stripping the scalp of necessary moisture.

• Cleansing and Oil Removal: Glycolic acid also breaks down oil and debris on the scalp, which is crucial for people dealing with oily hair. This helps to maintain a fresher scalp environment and reduces the overall greasy appearance, making it an excellent solution for those struggling with oily hair conditions.

• Indirect Sebum Regulation: Though glycolic acid doesn’t directly control sebum production, by keeping the scalp clean and preventing pore congestion, it may reduce the need for sebaceous glands to overproduce oil. 

• Maintaining Scalp Health: A clean and balanced scalp environment can contribute to healthier hair overall. By removing excess oil and preventing buildup, glycolic acid helps reduce the risk of other scalp issues, like irritation or acne, which are often exacerbated by oily conditions. Additionally, glycolic acid could act as a pH regulator and hydrator, helping to maintain the scalp’s natural acidity and prevent over-drying.

With all of this mentioned, glycolic acid seems like a good solution for oily hair. However, there is currently no direct research on its use specifically for oily hair. Clinical trials, such as the one by MINAS A. & al. (2000), have demonstrated its success in treating scalp conditions like psoriasis, suggesting that glycolic acid can be safely used on the scalp. However, most studies focus on its benefits for facial skin, such as reducing acne and oiliness.

When choosing hair care products containing glycolic acid, it's important to note that commercial products typically contain low concentrations, making them safe for regular use. However, if you plan to use higher concentrations of glycolic acid yourself or attempt a chemical peel on your scalp, it's important to proceed with caution, as such applications have not yet been studied in clinical trials for hair care. Additionally, you should be aware of the increased UV sensitivity caused by glycolic acid; wearing protective headwear when outdoors can help mitigate potential sun damage.

While direct studies on glycolic acid’s effects on oily hair are currently limited, its established use in skincare and success in treating scalp conditions like psoriasis suggest it could have potential benefits for hair care. Its sebum-managing and moisturizing properties make it a compelling candidate for inclusion in hair care routines, particularly for those dealing with oily scalp conditions. However, more targeted research is needed to confirm its efficacy specifically for managing oily hair.

• MINAS A. & al. Double-blind clinical study reveals synergistic action between alpha-hydroxy acid and betamethasone lotions towards topical treatment of scalp psoriasis. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2000).

• THAMAN L. A. & al. Cosmetic formulation of skin care products. Taylor & Francis Group (2006).

• SHARAD J. Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2013).

• HADDAD L. & al. Two is better than one: The combined effects of glycolic acid and salicylic acid on acne-related disorders. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020).

• TIMAR S. Hair anatomy and material science. Islamic Azad University (2020).

• POTLAPATI A. & al. Shampoo, conditioner and hair washing. International Journal of Research in Dermatology (2022).

• MUKOVOZOV I. & al. Topical AHA in dermatology: Formulations, mechanisms of action, efficacy, and future perspectives. Cosmetics (2023).