Everything you need to know about glycolic acid.

Glycolic acid is a true ally for maintaining and promoting a healthy epidermis. Indeed, this active ingredient has multiple benefits, acting at all levels to smooth out irregularities. Glycolic acid is particularly known for its keratolytic effect. It helps to shed dead cells on the surface. The non-abrasive chemical action of glycolic acid breaks the bonds that hold dead skin, thus ensuring effective and gentle exfoliation. This controlled desquamation thus activates cellular renewal for the benefit of:

• The appearance of the skin:

  Renowned for its exfoliating power, glycolic acid helps to regulate sebum production in oily skin and thus to inhibit the formation of blemishes, caused by pore obstruction from dead cells, which leads to the emergence of blackheads and acne. As such, since the pores are unblocked and less dilated, pimples and blackheads become less frequent. Moreover, this active ingredient helps to reduce acne scars thanks to its exfoliating action that promotes cell renewal. Consequently, these skin irregularities are diminished. Thus, glycolic acid promotes skin texture uniformity and helps to restore smooth skin.

• The Complexion:

  Thanks to its peeling effect, glycolic acid effectively removes dead, dull, and dehydrated cells from the surface of the epidermis. This exfoliating action allows healthy cells to emerge (cell renewal), which restores radiance and brightness to the face. It can also reduce hyperpigmentation. Indeed, depending on the concentration of glycolic acid, exfoliation can rid the skin of melanin-rich skin cells on the surface. This phenomenon can even trigger cell renewal at the basal layer of the skin, the deep layer of the epidermis, where melanocytes, the melanin-producing cells, are located. This therefore allows to diminish brown spots caused by age or sun exposure (including pregnancy mask) and thus lighten the complexion. It also contributes to the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and provides a hydrating effect to the horny layer of the skin. Result: the epidermis regains its firmness and the complexion its radiance, and the skin is plumped, softer, and smoother.

• Skin aging:

  Glycolic acid also operates on several levels to combat the signs of skin aging, in addition to its depigmenting action against brown spots, caused by an accumulation of melanin, which can appear with age. Indeed, glycolic acid can penetrate up to the dermis. In this context, it can stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin, which weakens with age, responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin, and also the production of hyaluronic acid, a natural humectant responsible for skin hydration, which tends to gradually decrease with age. Thus, glycolic acid helps the skin to maintain a good level of hydration, to firm and tone, but also to fade wrinkles and fine lines.

Glycolic acid has also demonstrated its effectiveness in hair care, particularly for dry, dull, and oily hair. Indeed, due to its small molecular size, glycolic acid quickly penetrates the hair surface to hydrate and revitalize it, thereby improving hair resilience by reducing breakage and enhancing hair shine. In cases of dandruff, its exfoliating action allows for deep cleansing of the scalp, facilitating the removal of flakes. This helps to decrease flaking and strengthen the scalp. Glycolic acid also aids in eliminating excess sebum, a problem encountered by oily hair.

Glycolic acid is present in a large number of cosmetic products (serum, lotion, cream, mask, shampoo, etc..) and aesthetic treatments (chemical peeling). However, not all glycolic acid treatments are created equal. Its effectiveness depends on two factors: its concentration and the overall pH in the formula. In cosmetic products, its concentration varies between 4 and 10% depending on the needs of the skin and will allow for anything from gentle exfoliation to more pronounced skin peeling.

A concentration of 4% is sufficient to provide a moisturizing effect. These types of products can also be useful in preparing the skin to better tolerate subsequent treatments with higher concentrations of glycolic acid by acidifying the stratum corneum. Around 8 to 10%, the treatments, suitable for nighttime application, begin to have a keratolytic effect similar to a mild peel, thus stimulating the renewal of skin cells. These formulations also help combat skin irregularities (excess sebum, enlarged pores, blackheads, etc...), emerging wrinkles, and dullness. Although regulations do not provide a maximum usage threshold, it is estimated that 20% is a reasonable limit for at-home cosmetic treatments. At very high concentrations (>20%), peels should be performed under strict medical supervision in dermatology clinics. This includes chemical peels, which require pre- and post-treatment care. They are particularly useful for treating acne marks or pigmentation spots, as well as wrinkles. However, peels in beauty salons should not exceed 20% glycolic acid. In summary, the more concentrated the treatments are in active ingredients, the more effective they are and the deeper they act.

Besides the concentration of glycolic acid, the pH of the solution also influences the intensity of exfoliation. The higher the pH, the more the action of the glycolic acid is neutralized.On the other hand, a low pH helps to preserve the potency of the active ingredient, thus ensuring optimal effectiveness. Similarly, the lower the pH, the more acidic the product is, and therefore more irritating.

At Typology, two products containing glycolic acid are offered for daily use:

• An exfoliating serum : Composed of 10% glycolic acid, this treatment works on the quality and texture of the epidermis by providing hydration to the skin, thanks to its stimulating effect on cell renewal and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and by combating blackheads and enlarged pores. We recommend using the glycolic acid serum for 4 weeks to see its effects: a smoother and more even complexion.

• An exfoliating toner : With a glycolic acid content of 8%, this cosmetic product aids in exfoliating the skin, unclogging pores, and thus reducing the presence of blackheads, and tightening the pores. Consequently, the glycolic acid lotion will allow the skin to regain a rejuvenated, toned appearance, and a bright, even complexion.