What is a peeling mask composed of?

As its name suggests, this type of treatment is to be left on for a few minutes like a mask and exfoliates the skin like a peel. It is generally used to gently exfoliate the skin and thus stimulate cellular renewal. By eliminating the dead cells accumulated on the surface of the epidermis, it brings a glow to the complexion, unclogs pores, and prevents the formation of imperfections such as blackheads.

Typically, the peeling mask is rinsed off after a resting period not exceeding 10 to 15 minutes, and is performed once to twice a week.

Peeling masks are typically formulas whose base is an emulsion or an aqueous gel. They contain various categories of ingredients.

1. The solvent : Also known as an excipient, it is often thewater,which is most commonly listed first on the INCI list. It dissolves the other compounds present in the formula.

2. Exfoliating agents : The primary function of this type of treatment is to provide an exfoliating action to the skin by stimulating its desquamation. In fact, peeling is a chemical exfoliation that eliminates keratinocytes by breaking the ionic bonds, thus destabilizing the horny layer and causing its gradual detachment. Generally, the exfoliating agents used are acids. On the market, three types of acid are particularly widespread in peels: the AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), the BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and the PHA (poly hydroxy acid).

   • Les AHA les plus répandus sont l'acide glycolique et l'acide lactique. L'acide glycolique étant de plus petite dimension que l'acide lactique, il pénètre davantage en profondeur dans l'épiderme d'ou son potentiel irritant plus important. Pour cette raison, les peelings chimiques à base d'acide lactique sont plutôt recommandés pour les peaux les plus sensibles.

   • Le BHA le plus commun en cosmétique est l'acide salicylique. Ses propriétés antibactériennes en font un actif de choix pour l'exfoliation chimique des peaux mixtes à grasses présentant des imperfections.

   • De taille moléculaire plus importante que les AHA et BHA, les PHA pénètrent moins profondément dans l'épiderme et sont plus adaptés aux peaux atopiques et/ou présentant des affections cutanées. Les trois principaux PHA utilisés en cosmétique sont le gluconolactone, un antioxydant qui lutte efficacement contre les inflammations ; le galactose, qui stimule la production de collagène et l’acide lactobionique reconnu pour ses propriétés hydratantes.

3. Gelling Agents: The consistent texture is provided to peeling masks via texturizing agents which are most often synthetic polymers such as carbomers (blacklisted at Typology) or natural ones like sclerotium gum (INCI name: "Sclerotium Gum"), the xanthan gum (INCI name: "Xanthan Gum") or even the tara gum (INCI name: "Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum").

4. Humectant Compounds: The humectant nature of an ingredient is based on its ability to retain water molecules due to its hygroscopic power (strong affinity for water). On the market, the potential humectant compounds present in a peeling mask are glycerin, propylene glycol, the PEGs (polyethylene glycol), or even pentylene glycol.

   As a reminder, in the interest of caution, Typology excludes PEGs and propylene glycol from its formulas. The peeling mask presented above contains vegetable glycerin.