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Allantoïne éclaircissant.

Allantoin, an active ingredient with brightening properties?

Allantoin is a cosmetic ingredient known for its regenerative and healing virtues. As a very gentle active ingredient, it imparts suppleness and softness to the skin. It is also sometimes said that allantoin possesses lightening and depigmenting properties, which are beneficial in combating brown spots. Let's explore this together.

Summary
Published January 29, 2024, by Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication — 3 min read

What is Allantoin?

In its pure form, allantoin appears as a white, odorless powder. This active ingredient is found in many botanical extracts, particularly in comfrey, a perennial plant common in Europe. Allantoin can be extracted from the leaves and roots, where its content varies between 0.7% and 2.5%. Amniotic fluid, mammalian urine, and snail mucus also contain allantoin.

In cosmetics, this active ingredient is highly valued because it is very well tolerated, even by those with sensitive skin. Additionally, the moisturizing and healing properties of allantoin make it a common component in various creams and nourishing balms. Its concentration typically ranges between 0.5 and 1% of the total weight of the product. Beyond these benefits, it is also said that allantoin can lighten the skin. What does the scientific literature say about this?

Allantoin to mitigate hyperpigmentation marks?

Skin lightening is often motivated by the presence of brown spots on the skin. These form as a result of melanin accumulation in the epidermis, the brown pigment that protects the skin from UV rays. While the synthesis of melanin is essential, when it is produced in excess, it impacts the uniformity of the complexion. In this situation, can the use of allantoin help?

Regrettably, no scientific study has to date demonstrated that allantoin possesses lightening properties. Indeed, presumably, this active ingredient does not act on the process of melanogenesis and has no effect on hyperpigmentation. Allantoin also does not have any antioxidant activity, which would be relevant for preventing pigmentation disorders.

However, this ingredient has a keratolytic effect, allowing it to stimulate cellular regeneration. Indeed, allantoin removes corneocytes by loosening the intercellular cement or desmosomes (protein bridges) that maintain the adhesion of corneocytes to each other. In doing so, it contributes to making the skin more supple and radiant.

Key Takeaway : Allantoin is a noteworthy cosmetic ingredient, particularly renowned for its moisturizing and healing properties. However, it does not have a proven lightening effect and should not be used to fade brown spots.

Source

  • DINICA R. M. & al. Allantoin from valuable romanian animal and plant sources with promising anti-inflammatory activity as a nutricosmetic ingredient. Sustainability (2021).

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