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Combinaison d'actifs collagène

Beneficial active ingredient combinations to use with collagen?

Collagen is a protein naturally present in the body that promotes, among other things, the maintenance of skin suppleness and firmness. However, its production tends to decrease over time, hence the need for external supplementation and its incorporation into cosmetic formulas, generally in combination with other active ingredients. Discover the ingredients to combine with collagen to ensure optimal effectiveness.

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Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid: A Natural Combination for Hydrating the Skin.

In cosmetic care, collagen is very often combined with hyaluronic acid, a molecule prized for its moisturizing properties. These active ingredients are naturally associated in the dermis, which is rich in connective tissue. This tissue is characterized by its abundant extracellular matrix, composed mainly of protein fibers, including collagen, and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid among others). Together, they form a compressible gel that retains water like a sponge, also ensuring the maintenance of the skin's structure.

In cosmetic formulation, these two active ingredients are used synergistically to provide hydration to the skin or hair. Indeed, collagen works by forming a thin film on the surface of the epidermis, thus protecting the epidermis and skin tissues from dehydration. Hyaluronic acid acts similarly, with its strong hygroscopic properties allowing it to retain up to 1000 times its weight in water. Together, collagen and hyaluronic acid make a great duo for protecting the skin, hydrating it, and preventing dehydration fine lines.

Note : Similarly, collagen can be combined with polyglutamic acid. This lesser-known active ingredient is just as effective, if not more so, than hyaluronic acid. Once applied, it traps up to 5000 times its weight in water, ensuring long-lasting skin hydration.

Collagen and Vitamin C: A Beneficial Combination to Prevent Skin Aging.

Also popular in the cosmetic sphere, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. By donating an electron to free radicals, it stabilizes them and reduces oxidative stress in skin cells. Studies have shown that hydrolyzed collagen, in addition to its moisturizing properties, possesses anti-radical properties. These, however, depend on the size of the active ingredient: the lower the molecular weight of the peptides, the better their ability to donate an electron. By combating oxidative stress, the collagen/vitamin C combination prevents the degradation of endogenous protein fibers, skin sagging, and the appearance of sunspots.

If these two molecules are often combined, it is also because they can stimulate the synthesis of endogenous collagen. Indeed, it has been shown that peptides derived from hydrolyzed collagen stimulate the proliferation and activity of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen production. Vitamin C, on the other hand, serves as a cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase, key enzymes that cross-link and stabilize collagen fibers. Vitamin C also directly activates transcription factors involved in collagen synthesis and stabilizes procollagen messenger RNA, regulating the synthesis of type I and III collagen.

Collagen and Biotin: Supplementation for Skin and Hair Care.

Biotin is a B vitamin essential for the proper functioning of the body. It contributes to the formation of skin cell membranes and the maintenance of the structure of keratin found in hair and nails. A deficiency in biotin can cause various issues, including alopecia or significant nail fragility. To address this, biotin treatments are offered, sometimes combined with supplementation in collagen. Several studies have investigated the effects of these active ingredients when taken orally and have shown that they can help to thicken hair fibers. Shampoos containing collagen and biotin are also available, but their effectiveness seems limited due to the difficulty biotin has in penetrating the skin barrier.

Collagen and biotin treatments also appear to offer benefits for the skin. A recent study was conducted with 72 women divided into two groups who, for 12 weeks, took either a daily placebo or a vial containing 2.5 g of collagen peptides, biotin, acerola extract, vitamins C and E, and zinc. The researchers observed that the supplementation significantly increased skin hydration and elasticity, while the placebo had no effect. It is important to note, however, that the dietary supplement contained more than just collagen and biotin.

Collagen and Vitamin E: Another Combination to Combat Oxidative Stress.

The association between collagen and vitamin E is relatively similar to that of collagen and vitamin C. Indeed, vitamin E is also widely used for its antioxidant properties, allowing it to protect various cells in the body from oxidative stress induced by external aggressions such as the sun, pollution, or tobacco. Dietary supplements based on collagen and vitamin E have thus emerged in the nutricosmetics market, aiming to prevent skin sagging.

Regarding clinical studies that have focused on the effects of such supplementation on the skin, they are few in number. However, we can mention the previously cited study conducted with 72 participants. This study shows an improvement in skin quality following a 12-week intake of a dietary supplement containing collagen, vitamin E, and other compounds. Nevertheless, it is again important to keep in mind that it is not only the effects of the collagen/vitamin E combination that were evaluated, but those of all the active ingredients present in the dietary supplement.

Collagen and Elastin: Essential Proteins for the Skin.

Just like collagen, elastin is synthesized by the fibroblasts in the dermis. These two proteins are closely associated in the extracellular matrix and contribute to the organization of tissues, with elastin's role being more specifically to allow the skin to retain its shape, even after stretching. However, cosmetic products containing elastin are quite rare, as this protein is more often found in dietary supplements, where it can be mixed with collagen.

A study conducted with mice has demonstrated that supplementation with collagen peptides and elastin peptides can increase the levels of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid in animal skin. It appears that these effects are due to the modulation of the expression of seven factors related to the synthesis of collagen and elastin, including IGF-1, LOX, SMAD2, JNK, SP1, TβRII, and TGF-β. However, this is only a single study, conducted with an animal model. More research would be necessary to conclude that supplementation with collagen and elastin can slow skin aging in humans, but it is an encouraging avenue.

  • CHIANG N. & al. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2017).

  • RODRIGUEZ M.I. Collagen: A review on its sources and potential cosmetic applications. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018).

  • VOSS W. & al. A Collagen Supplement Improves Skin Hydration, Elasticity, Roughness, and Density: Results of a Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Blind Study. Nutrients (2019).

  • DONG C. & al. The effects and mechanism of collagen peptide and elastin peptide on skin aging induced by D-galactose combined with ultraviolet radiation. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology (2020).

  • SINKOROVA Z. & al. Hyaluronic Acid: Known for Almost a Century, but Still in Vogue. Pharmaceutics (2022).

  • BARROS A. & al. Polyglutamate: Unleashing the Versatility of a Biopolymer for Cosmetic Industry Applications. Cosmetics (2024).

  • BERTOLINI M. & al. Revealing novel insights on how oral supplementation with collagen peptides may prevent hair loss: Lessons from the human hair follicle organ culture. Journal of Functional Foods (2024).

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