Also known as age spots or hyperpigmentation, brown spots are a common cosmetic issue. Although harmless, they disrupt the uniformity of the skin, particularly when located on the face. Therefore, it is not uncommon for individuals affected by this issue to seek to get rid of them. Could the application of moringa oil help?
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Brown Spots: Moringa Oil for Skin Tone Unification?
Summary
Published July 5, 2024,
updated on October 4, 2024,
by
Pauline, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
Can moringa oil act on pigmented spots?
Extracted from the seeds of the Moringa oleifera, a tree native to India often referred to as the "tree of life" or "miracle tree", the moringa oil is used in the composition of numerous cosmetic products. It is primarily known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, but this ingredient also has antioxidant, soothing, and healing effects. It is also possible that the moringa oil may help prevent and reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots, which correspond to an abnormal accumulation of melanin in the skin. Brown spots often result from repeated and prolonged sun exposure over a lifetime. Depending on skin sensitivity, they usually appear between the ages of 45 and 50.
It is possible that moringa oil may help prevent brown spots. Indeed, it has antioxidant activity due to its richness in antioxidants, particularly vitamin E. Moringa oil can thus protect the skin from oxidative stress, caused among other things by the sun's UV rays. Thanks to its chemical structure, vitamin E neutralizes free radicals before they attack cellular constituents and disrupt the process of melanogenesis. Epidermal melanocytes are indeed very sensitive to oxidative stress. More specifically, the free hydroxyl function carried by the aromatic cycle of vitamin E reacts with free radicals and provides them with the missing electron, which helps to stabilize them and cancel their reactivity.
Furthermore, a study conducted in vitro has shown that moringa oil possesses an anti-tyrosinase activity, likely due to its richness in quercetin. As a reminder, tyrosinase is an enzyme involved in the biosynthesis of melanin, catalyzing the oxidation of tyrosine into melanin. During the study, the median inhibitory concentration (IC50) of moringa oil was compared to that of kojic acid, a molecule known for its depigmenting effect. The IC50 is a measure commonly used in pharmacological and cosmetic studies to evaluate the effectiveness of a compound in inhibiting a biological function. It represents the concentration of a molecule that is required for 50% inhibition in vitro. The results obtained during the study are presented in the table below. By blocking tyrosinase, moringa oil could be beneficial for reducing sensitivity to hyperpigmentation.
| Tested Compound | IC50 (µg/mL) |
|---|---|
| Moringa Oil | 92,374 ± 8.11 |
| Kojic Acid | 65,031 ± 2.44 |
IC50 relatives à l'inhibition de la tyrosinase pour l'huile de moringa et l'acide kojique.
Source : BASO F. & al. Skin Brightening Cream Formulation and Tyrosinase Inhibition Assay of Moringa Leaf Extract. International Journal of Pharmaceutical and Bio-Medical Science (2022).
The depigmenting properties of moringa oil have also been demonstrated ex vivo on a reconstructed human epidermis. Scientists observed that the application of 8 µL of moringa oil for 6 days resulted in a 17.63% decrease in melanin production. Using 28 µL, the reduction was 21.31%. In comparison, the application of 40 µL of a 1 g/L kojic acid solution (reference concentration) led to a 24.58% decrease in melanin synthesis. Therefore, the anti-depigmenting properties of moringa oil could be nearly comparable to those of kojic acid without presenting the same risks. The moringa oil is indeed a well-tolerated vegetable oil, while kojic acid is a suspected endocrine disruptor and a potential irritant.
Moringa oil could be an intriguing natural alternative for evening out skin tone. In the future, it would be interesting to see clinical trials highlight this property.
Sources
JIN X. & al. Moringa oleifera stem extract safeguards skin keratinocytes from oxidative stress damage through the amplification of antioxidant defense mechanisms and activation of PPARα. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy (2018).
LTEIF R. & al. Skin lightening effect of natural extracts derived from Senegal's botanical biodiversity. International Journal of Dermatology (2019).
JUNIOR D. & al. Moringa oleifera seed oil: A review. Journal of Research in Agriculture and Animal Science (2021).
BASO F. & al. Formulation of Skin Brightening Cream and Tyrosinase Inhibition Assay of Moringa Leaf Extract. International Journal of Pharmaceutical and Bio-Medical Science (2022).
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