Glycolic acid, an active ingredient not recommended for very dry skin.

Often used in chemical peels, glycolic acid is a fruit acid known for its exfoliating properties. Indeed, it has the ability to detach dead skin cells on the surface, thereby stimulating the renewal of the epidermal cells. Glycolic acid is present in many cosmetic product formulas at a concentration between 4 and 10%: serum, cream, toning lotion, shower gel, etc...

However, glycolic acid can sometimes be poorly tolerated, especially on atopic and/or very dry skin. Indeed, it stands out from other A.H.A.s like lactic acid due to its powerful keratolytic activity and its small size that allows it to penetrate the skin deeply.

As it penetrates deeply into the various layers of the skin and stimulates cellular renewal, glycolic acid often dries out the skin.

However, it is important to clarify that the effects of this active ingredient can vary greatly and depend on its concentration, the pH of the product, and the application time. That's why it's crucial to always thoroughly read the instructions before any application.

Thus, it is likely and normal to experience slight tingling and a mild warming sensation, and to see redness appear following the application of cosmetics containing glycolic acid and/or some flaking (peeling skin). However, depending on your skin's tolerance level, these symptoms can intensify and may even be accompanied by erythema, burning sensations, tightness, itching, and facial swelling, and hyperpigmentation. In rare cases, hypopigmentation, persistent erythema, and a breakout of pimples have been reported. Upon the onset of such side effects, immediately stop using the product and consider rinsing your face thoroughly with water.

At Typology, we advise against its use onvery dry, sensitive, and reactive skin, as well as for individuals suffering from an inflammatory skin condition (eczema, rosacea, herpes, etc…). It is also recommended to avoid using it among pregnant women. Indeed, it is responsible for vascular disorders related to hormonal impregnation, resulting in congestive outbreaks on the face: the skin reddens more easily and becomes more sensitive.

What solution to combat the drying effect of glycolic acid?

Applying a product rich in hydrating active ingredients (hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, polyglutamic acid...) is an excellent way to prevent skin dryness following the application of glycolic acid treatments.

We advise you to apply the moisturizing treatment after the one with glycolic acid, preferably in the evening because glycolic acid is a photosensitizing substance (it increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays).

For instance, during your evening beauty routine,night, for a smooth and even complexion, apply 3 to 4 drops of ourglycolic acid serum to the face. Wait a few minutes then apply our plumping serum with hyaluronic acid and/or our face moisturizing cream minimalist with 9 ingredients to rehydrate your skin.

Sources:

  • Gabriella Fabbrocini, Maria Pia De Padova, Antonella Tosti, Glycolic Acid, Color Atlas of Chemical Peels, (2006).

  • Sheau-Chung Tang, Jen-Hung Yang, Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin, Molecules, (2018).

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