The dihydroxyacetone or DHA is a sugar that provides a tanned complexion to the skin without having to expose oneself to the sun. It is the main active ingredient in self-tanning products. It is generally combined with another sugar: erythrulose. Discover its mode of action for a natural tanned complexion, as well as the different products that contain it.
Dihydroxyacetone, for a natural sun-kissed complexion.
Summary
Published on April 7, 2022, updated on August 7, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min of reading
Themes:
What is dihydroxyacetone and how does it act on the skin?
The dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a ketotriose, meaning it consists of three carbon atoms, with a carbonyl group in the middle of the chain. Present in many self-tanning products, this sugar can be of plant or synthetic origin. When it is plant-derived, it is obtained by bioconversion of the glycerol contained in corn, sugarcane, rapeseed, beet, palm oil, etc...
Upon contact with the skin, DHA triggers a chemical reaction resulting from the glycation of amino acids contained in corneocytes (cells of the horny layer). This reaction produces melanoidins, heterogeneous polymers responsible for the brown coloration of the skin. The pigmentation appears within 6 to 12 hours following the application of the self-tanning product. However, this color gradually fades to completely disappear in 5 to 7 days.
This phenomenon is explained by the frequent renewal of the stratum corneum (natural exfoliation process). Having no effect on melanocytes, this artificial tan provides no protection against UV rays. The use of a sunscreen that is suitable is therefore recommended for sun exposure.
4 minutes to understand your skin. Our dermatological diagnostic guides you toward the ideal skincare for your specific needs. Simple, quick, personalized.
In which skincare products can we find dihydroxyacetone?
When applied to the skin, DHA is regulated at a maximum concentration of 10%, but it is generally present at 3 to 8%.As previously mentioned, it provides a tanned complexion by reacting with the amino acids in the stratum corneum. Thus, it acts as an active ingredient in self-tanning products. There are various formulations available: milks, creams, serums, gels...
At Typology, we have formulated two self-tanning treatments, providing color and radiance to the complexion. Our self-tanning serum contains 10% DHA combined with erythrulose for a natural finish. It also includes carob pulp extract to prolong the tan. This treatment enhances the complexion just 12 hours after the first application for a progressive effect. For the body, we offer our self-tanning gel, enriched with 6% DHA, and also containing aloe vera, which has a moisturizing effect. It also progressively colors the skin and gives it a light and natural tan.
Note : DHA is also aingredient in hair dye. It works in a similar way as it does on skin cells, that is, through a browning reaction called the Maillard reaction or glycation. The colorations obtained using DHA-rich products are generally temporary. However, they allow for coloring without damaging the hair fibers. Thus, the hair maintains its shine and health. It should be noted that the concentration of DHA allowed in hair dyes cannot exceed 6.25%
Are there any risks associated with the use of DHA on the skin?
The SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) has stated that DHA found in self-tanning products does not pose a health risk to the consumer at a maximum concentration of 10%. Furthermore, no scientific study has proven that DHA penetrates the skin's protective barriers. It is not contraindicated for pregnant women.
On the other hand, a self-tanning product containing DHA can cause irritation if applied to sensitive areas of the body. That's why all body parts covered with mucous membranes should be free of self-tanner.
