Does Makeup Make My Acne Look Worse?

The term "comedogenic" is derived from the word "comedones" and refers to the ability of a cosmetic ingredient or product to clog the sebaceous glands. These are responsible for the production of sebum. This blockage prevents the natural removal of sebum, which tends to lead to various skin problems, such as acne, which takes the form of stubborn white pimples or painfully swollen red pimples.

The concept of comedogenicity of a makeup product is especially important for people with combination to oily skin or skin prone to blemishes, as they may be more likely to develop comedones after using a comedogenic product. For these skin types, it is therefore best to choose a non-comedogenic cosmetic product. A non-comedogenic skincare product is simply one that does not contain comedogenic substances.

But how can I tell if my makeup and especially my foundation is comedogenic?

There are several things you can do:

• Check the I.N.C.I. list of your cosmetics to identify comedogenic ingredients.

• Although it's not a guarantee, you should use products labeled with terms like "non-comedogenic," "won't clog pores," or "won't cause rashes."

• Don't forget your skin's tolerance level, as everyone's skin is different and reacts differently to the product. For example, products labeled non-comedogenic may clog pores in some people and vice versa.

The term comedogenic is calculated on a scale. Ingredients are ranked from 0 to 5 according to their comedogenic effect, where a value of 0 means that no blackheads have developed, i.e., the pores are not clogged, and a value of 5 means that the ingredient is highly likely to cause blackheads. The comedogenicity index of an ingredient is based, among other things, on the speed with which it enters the top layers of the skin and its susceptibility to oxidation. Any ingredient rated 2 or less is considered non-comedogenic. Here is a list of ingredients to avoid, for oily or acne-prone skin that already has problems and clogged pores.

• Animal waxes: beeswax and lanolin;

• Certain mineral oils and waxes derived from hydrocarbons: Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Vaseline, Mineral Oil, Ceresin Wax, etc. ... ;

• Certain plant oils and butters: Triticum Vulgare or Wheat germ oil, Argania Spinosa (argan oil), Persea Gratissima (avocado oil), Coco Nucifera or Coconut Butter (coconut oil), Cacao Butter or Theobroma Cacao (cocoa butter), Butyrospermum Parkii or Shea Butter (shea butter), Rosa Canina or Rosehip Oil (wild rose oil), Castor Oil (castor oil), etc. ;

• Certain fatty acid esters: especially stearic and oleic acid derivatives, or also isopropyl myristate.

• Silicones: often found in conventional foundations because they give a soft texture with a non-greasy finish, these polymers are usually very pore-clogging. Double-check the ingredients of your products and remember that silicones may also be listed as dimethicone in the ingredient list. Note: Some silicones such as cyclomethicone (a mixture of D4, D5 and D6 silicones in varying proportions) are known endocrine disruptors.

Worth knowing: some ingredients such as alcohol are not comedogenic, but have a particularly drying effect on the skin. However, they should be avoided in makeup products for acne-prone skin, as they can aggravate micro-injuries and also cause sebum overproduction.