Does makeup worsen acne?

The term "comedogenic" comes from the word "comedones" and refers to the property of a cosmetic ingredient or a cosmetic product to clog the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. This blockage prevents the natural evacuation of sebum, which tends to cause various skin problems, such as theacne that presents itself in the form of persistent whiteheads or swollen and painful red pimples.

The concept of comedogenicity in makeup products is particularly significant for individuals with combination to oily skin or those suffering from blemish-prone skin, as they are more likely to develop comedones following the use of a comedogenic product. Therefore, these skin types would greatly benefit from choosing a non-comedogenic cosmetic. In essence, a non-comedogenic skincare product is simply a product devoid of comedogenic substances.

But how can I determine if my makeup, and more specifically my complexion formulas, are comedogenic?

A number of criteria need to be taken into account:

• Check the I.N.C.I. list of your beauty products to identify comedogenic ingredients.

• While it's not a guarantee, it is advisable touse products labeled with terms such as "non-comedogenic", "non-acnegenic", "won't clog pores", or "won't cause breakouts".

• Consider the tolerance level of your skin, as everyone's skin is different and reacts differently to the product. For instance, products labeled as non-comedogenic may clog pores in some individuals, and vice versa.

The concept of comedogenicity is measured on a scale. Ingredients are ranked from 0 to 5 based on their comedogenic effect, where a score of 0 means that no comedones have developed, thus the pores are not clogged, and a score of 5 means there is a high probability that it will cause comedones. The comedogenicity index of an ingredient is based, among other things, on its rate of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin and its vulnerability to oxidation. Any ingredient that has received a score of 2 or less is considered non-comedogenic. Here is a list of ingredients to avoid, incompatible with oily or acne-prone skin, which already have problems and clogged pores:

• The animal waxes: Beeswax (cire d’abeille) and Lanolin (lanoline);

• Some mineral oils and waxes derived from hydrocarbons: Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceresin Wax, etc... ;

• Some vegetable oils and butters: Triticum Vulgare or Wheat Germ Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan Oil), Persea Gratissima (Avocado Oil), Coco Nucifera or Coconut Butter, Cocoa Butter or Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa Butter), Butyspermum Parkii or Shea Butter, Rosa Canina or Rosehip Oil, Castor Oil, etc;

• Some fatty esters : particularly derivatives of stearic and oleic acids or even isopropyl myristate, the unsaponifiables, squalanes and squalenes, etc...

• The silicones : frequently found in conventional foundations due to the smooth texture with a non-greasy finish they provide, these polymers are generally very occlusive. Double-check the ingredients of your products and keep in mind that silicone can also be listed as dimethicone (or anything that ends with 'cone') in the ingredient list. Be aware, some silicones like the cyclomethicone (a mix of silicones D4, D5, and D6 in varying proportions) are recognized endocrine disruptors.

It should be noted: certain ingredients like alcohol are not comedogenic but are particularly drying for the skin. They are found in foundations because alcohol derivatives enhance the deposit of pigments on the skin. However, they should also be avoided in makeup products for acne-prone skin as they can exacerbate micro-lesions and also trigger a reactive overproduction of sebum.

Acne-prone skin can be made up, but under certain conditions. Applying makeup to acne-prone skin requires adopting an appropriate beauty routine that must adhere to several essential rules.

• Cleaning your skin on a daily basis.

  If you have acne, we recommend washing your skin with a gentle cleanser that respects the skin's balance (alcohol-free, fragrance-free...). Otherwise, the skin will react by producing more sebum. You can use our balancing wash care with nettle, handcrafted in France and 100% natural. Cold saponified, it consists of eucalyptus globulus essential oil and nettle powder.

  Alternatively, you can apply ourpurifying cleansing gel. Enriched with purifying active ingredients such as zinc PCA, this cleansing gel sanitizes the skin, regulates sebum production, and limits the development of blemishes. You can then applythepeppermint hydrosol to rebalance the skin's pH. It's worth noting, for oily skin, cleansing with a washing gel can be done only in the evening to avoid stimulating sebum production. In the morning, simply apply the hydrosol to sanitize your skin.

• Cleansing the skin every evening.

  When dealing with acne, it is even more crucial not to skip makeup removal! For instance, you can apply our makeup removal oil directly to your face until all makeup has completely disappeared, and complement this step with the micellar water containing 7 ingredients.

• Hydrating your skin with suitable skincare products.

  A common misconception is to believe thatoily skindoes not require hydration. The fact that it produces excess sebum (reactive hyperseborrhea) would suggest not to add more with the application of a moisturizing product, thinking that it could be counterintuitive. Even if it seems surprising, oily skin can also suffer fromdehydrationwith consequences on the appearance and feel of the skin: tightness, irritations, redness...

  If you're seeking a daily care product to hydrate your oily skin, we recommend the purifying face cream with its light texture that quickly absorbs without leaving a greasy or sticky residue. Thanks to the zinc PCA contained in this cream, it allows you to hydrate your skin without clogging pores, while limiting the appearance of blemishes. Endowed with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, this mineral works against the proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes and fights against the inflammatory reaction. Furthermore, its formulation guarantees sebum control due to the absorbing powers of bamboo extract and the sebum-regulating properties of zinc.

• Maintaining the hygiene of one's makeup tools.

  Over time, brushes can accumulate dust and bacteria. This is especially true when they are stored in a humid environment such as the bathroom. Therefore, if your brushes are not cleaned regularly, the dust and bacteria are deposited directly onto your skin, clog the pores, and can cause the appearance of blemishes such as acne or blackheads.

  The brushes used for foundation, under-eye treatments, and blush, should be cleaned at least once a week, as they can become breeding grounds for bacterial growth. Also, if you wear makeup every day, don't forget to wash them after each use, or at least several times a week.

• Always apply a complexion product with clean fingers.

  If you prefer to apply a tinted product using your hands, they must be cleaned beforehand. We advise you to take a small amount of the tinted product on your clean finger and lightly dab it onto your face, to avoid a mask-like effect.