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White wavy lines texture on a surface

Identity Profile: Xanthan Gum

Commonly known as: Xanthan Gum (I.N.C.I.), Xanthan Gum.
Botanical name: Zea mays L.
Extraction process: Pure culture fermentation of a medium containing corn syrup glucose by non-genetically modified bacteria, Xanthomonas campestris. The fermented mixture is then pasteurized before being placed in a filter and centrifuged. In the end, it is dried and then ground.
Family: Poaceae.
Part of the plant extracted: Seeds.
Location: Originally from Central America, it is now cultivated all over the world.
Flowering: From mid-July to early August.
Provenance, origin: Austria.
Phytochemical composition: Repetitive unit of pentasaccharide with a side chain consisting of a glucuronic acid residue between two units of mannose.
Sensorial properties: Appearance: Powder; Color: White; Odor: Neutral.
Physical characteristics: Molecular mass: 933.7 g/mol; Soluble in water; Insoluble in oil and ethanol; Recommended dosage: between 0.1 and 1% in a cosmetic formula.
Benefits: Thickening agent, gelling agent, film-forming agent, emulsion stabilizer, moisturizer.
Concerns: All types of skin and hair.

Details

Properties

  • Emulsifying, stabilizing: Allows the suspension of solid particles and achieves a stable and homogeneous emulsion over time at low concentration (< 0.5%) due to its elastic properties;

  • Thickening Agent: Creating high-viscosity textures by reacting with water molecules;

  • Gelling Agent: Adding consistency to preparations containing a water phase to facilitate its grasp and application on the skin or hair;

  • Moisturizing: Forming a film on the skin's surface to limit water evaporation and prevent dehydration.

Applications

  • Facial Care (Exfoliating masks, creams, serums, toning lotions, cleansing gels, eye contour gels, face masks);

  • Body Care (balms/creams/body lotions, sun care products, cooling gels, exfoliating jellies/gels);

  • Hair Care (shampoos, conditioners, masks, lotions, scalp scrubs, styling gels);

  • Hygiene (toothpastes, deodorants, shower gels, shower oils, hand sanitizers);

  • Makeups (mascaras, foundations, blushes, eyeshadows).

Method of Preservation

Store in a dry place at room temperature, protected from moisture and light.

Contraindications, Usage Precautions

Xanthan gum presents no contraindications for topical application. A 2016 study by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) on microbial polysaccharide gums, which includes xanthan gum, demonstrated the safety of the ingredient.

From a legal perspective, xanthan gum is not regulated in Europe. However, in the United States, the FDA limits its use to 6% of the total ingredients in cosmetics.

However, avoid inhaling the powder or any contact with the eyes. This is a powdery product that should be used away from any source of ventilation.

Find out more

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide naturally produced by the action of a bacterium. It was discovered in the late 1950s in the research laboratories of the United States Department of Agriculture during research on the industrial applications of microbial biopolymers. In-depth research revealed that the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris, found on cabbages, produces a high molecular weight polysaccharide. This polysaccharide protects the bacterium from heat or other microorganisms. Xanthan gum is also used in the food industry as a food additive under the code E415 to enhance the taste, flavor, texture, or even the preservation of the food product.