How is licorice extract obtained?

Licorice, botanically known as Glycyrrhiza glabra L., thrives in a continental climate. The main producers of this plant are Russia, China, Turkey, Bulgaria, Italy, Iraq, and Iran. To obtain the licorice extract commonly used in cosmetics, several steps are necessary:

1. The roots are harvested in the spring and fall, from plants that are at least 3 years old;

2. They are then cleaned and stripped of their buds and radicles;

3. The roots are dried either slowly, in dry places, in the shade for several months, or quickly in the sun or in a kiln (in special low-temperature ovens);

4. Finally, they are peeled and ground into powder.

Firstly, licorice extract is often compared to hydroquinone due to its pigment-regulating nature. It has the advantage of being gentler and better tolerated by the skin than hydroquinone, which has been banned in all cosmetic products by European regulations since 2001 due to its carcinogenic potential. The effectiveness of licorice extract is due to the presence of glabridin, a potent depigmenting agent known for its brightening and anti-spot virtues. It is capable of inhibiting tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The equation is simple: less melanin means less pigment, fewer brown spots, and a more even complexion.

Next, licorice extract effectively limits skin aging due to oxidative stress. Indeed, the flavonoids it contains specifically neutralize the superoxide anion, denoted as O₂.⁻, preventing it from reacting and thus degrading the healthy constituents of the skin (lipids, proteins, DNA). Thus, this plant-based active ingredient protects the skin from accelerated aging caused by external aggressions such as UV rays, pollution, smoking...

Finally, the glycyrrhizic acid found in licorice extract is a powerful anti-inflammatory agent. It soothes irritated skin, redness, and itching. It is particularly effective on atopic skin. It is often referred to as natural cortisone: it effectively relieves eczema.