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A quelle fréquence utiliser l'acide glycolique ?

How often should glycolic acid be used?

Some basic concepts about glycolic acid.

Also known as hydroxyacetic acid, glycolic acid is the most popular form of alpha-hydroxy acids (A.H.A.). This group of molecules also includes lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid. These are natural derivatives of certain fruits (orange, pear, grape, apple, etc...) or even animals (milk).

Although it can also be synthetically synthesized, glycolic acid is typically of natural origin, derived from sugarcane. It is also the smallest molecule of all the A.H.A. Due to this property, it can penetrate the various layers of the epidermis more easily and deeply, depending on its concentration, making it an effective tool for mitigating a variety of skin issues ranging from acne to hyperpigmentation to aging. At low concentrations (<5%), it has moisturizing properties, while at high concentrations (>20%) it is a powerful exfoliant.

Glycolic acid offers numerous benefits: it is primarily known for itsoutstanding keratolytic virtues. This ingredient has the ability to remove dead skin cells accumulated on the surface by stimulating the regeneration of a new stratum corneum. As a result, glycolic acid significantly improves skin texture, by hydrating the skin, combating imperfections (enlarged pores, blackheads, pimples, excess sebum), reducing the appearance of wrinkles, acne scars, and pigmentation spots (dark spots, age spots, melasma), and adding radiance and vitality. This active ingredient can be found in many formulas such as creams, serums, shower gels, cleansers, masks, shampoos, or lotions.

When and how often should you apply a glycolic acid treatment?

It is advisable to use it during the evening daily beauty routine to minimize any risk of photosensitivity. Indeed, glycolic acid increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun, thus increasing the risk of sunburn. We also recommend consistently applying a SPF cream every morning and limiting or even avoiding prolonged sun exposure, as long as you are using a product containing glycolic acid and up to a week after its last application. In the same vein, prefer the application of glycolic acid-based products in fall/winter, rather than in the summer period. However, it is still possible to start or continue applying glycolic acid solutions during sunny episodes (spring and summer), provided of course that it is combined with a minimum SPF30 sun protection and avoiding the sun as much as possible.

The frequency of use depends on your skin type, skin tolerance level, as well as your needs and expectations. We advise you to start at spaced intervals, such as every other night or even every third night, then increase the frequency after one to two weeks if your skin tolerates this active ingredient well. It is normal to temporarily feel a slight sensation of warmth, some tingling, or a mild dryness of the skin during the initial days. If your skin is naturally dry or if you are applying a glycolic acid treatment for the first time, start with a treatment that has a low concentration of glycolic acid so that your skin can adjust (around 5%).

Our exfoliating toner lotioncontaining 8% glycolic acid and ourexfoliating face serumwith 10% glycolic acid can be used daily. However, stronger chemical peels (between 10 and 20%) should be applied only 1 to 2 times per week and should not exceed the indicated application time. Before applying a product to your face, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Sources:

  • KORNHAUSERA. & al. Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedecine (2003).

  • HEARING V. J. & al. The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science (2009).

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