How to incorporate retinoids into your routine?

Three retinoids are available on the cosmetic market and do not require a prescription. They can limit early and/or mild acne, but also fight against the appearance of signs of aging (wrinkles, fine lines, skin sagging). These are the following compounds:

• Retinol, for mature and non-sensitive skin and/or acne-prone skin.

  The most popular retinoid in skincare, it is considered one of the most effective compounds to counteract the degradation of the skin's support fibers. It stimulates the production of collagen and elastin for smoother and more elastic skin. Moreover, retinol is recognized for its antioxidant properties that prevent premature aging of skin cells. It also has an effect on the skin's melanin production, helping to diminish the appearance of brown spots that can appear with age.

  Generally recommended for mature skin, it is also a preferred choice for oily and/or acne-prone skin. Its keratolytic action helps to eliminate dead cells present on the surface of the epidermis. The pores are unclogged and the skin texture is refined, thus preventing the appearance of blackheads and/or comedones.

  Note: Even though retinol is generally recommended for mature skin to prevent wrinkles, it is still possible to use this active ingredient topically. However, it is advisable to start with a low percentage (0.1%). Thanks to itsantioxidantproperties, retinol will help young skin fight againstoxidative stressgenerated by free radicals to prevent the appearance of wrinkles. Let's remember that the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) recommends a maximum percentage of 0.3% of retinol in a non-rinse cosmetic formula and 0.05% in a body lotion.

• Retinal, also recommended for mature, non-sensitive, and/or acne-prone skin.

  From a chemical perspective, retinal is an intermediate metabolite between retinol and retinoic acid. In other words, when applied to the skin, retinol is oxidized into retinal and then metabolized into retinoic acid, its active form that can effectively combat photo-aging of the skin. However, it is prohibited in cosmetics because it is too irritating.

  Thus, retinal is more directly converted into retinoic acid in the skin than retinol, which must first undergo oxidation. Retinal is relevant in skincare because to be active, its concentration can be lower than retinol. Indeed, retinal can have a smoothing and regenerating action at concentrations ranging from 0.015% to 0.1%.

• Retinoid esters, for early wrinkles and/or mild acne as well as sensitive skin.

  These compounds are typically used due to their greater chemical stability compared to retinol or retinal, but also because they are the gentlest retinoids for the skin. The most common are retinyl acetate (INCI: Retinyl acetate), retinyl propionate (INCI: Retinyl propionate), retinyl palmitate (INCI: Retinyl palmitate), and retinyl linoleate (INCI: Retinyl linoleate). They are easily identifiable with the "ate" suffixes. However, retinol esters are less effective on wrinkles and acne than retinol or retinal, as they must undergo more transformation in the skin before taking the form of retinoic acid. The esters are nevertheless relevant if one has sensitive skin but still wants to start incorporating retinoids into their beauty routine.

Retinoids easily integrate into a beauty routine. They are suitable for all skin types, but are particularly recommended for mature, oily, or acne-prone skin. Their primary function is to combat the appearance of aging signs on the skin and to regulate excess sebum. Thus, they are present in various types of skincare products:

• Day and night creams;

• Eye contours;

• Serums;

• Chemical Peels.

However, caution is advised as retinol and retinal are active ingredients known for their irritating and drying effects, and are not recommended for sensitive and atopic skin. Below are some tips for using them effectively and avoiding any skin discomfort:

• Incorporate them gradually into your skincare routine :

  If you wish to start a retinoid-based skincare routine, begin by using a product that contains a low percentage of this active ingredient, that is, around 0.1%. Opt for a spaced application frequency initially, such as every third night for a month, then every other night for the following month, and then every night. This usage pattern allows your skin time to adapt to this new molecule. Then, you can switch to a different retinoid product to increase the content of the chosen molecule to 0.2 or even 0.3% (the maximum retinol concentration allowed by the European cosmetic regulation in a non-rinse product). You can also apply your retinoid product daily, every evening before bedtime.

• Only use them in the evening and apply a broad-spectrum sun protection the following morning :

  Species photosensitizing, retinoids increase skin sensitivity during exposure to the sun's UV rays. For this reason, it is preferable to apply a treatment containing a retinoid in the evening, before going to bed. The next morning, don't forget to protect your skin with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

• Combine them with a moisturizing treatment :

  Retinoids can be drying, especially for the most sensitive skin types, so pairing them with a moisturizing agent like thehyaluronic acid during your skincare routine can be beneficial. For instance, we recommend applying the hyaluronic acid treatment before the retinol one, preferably in the evening. Apply a few drops of our plumping serum with hyaluronic acid, followed by a dab of firming cream with retinol, during your evening beauty routine, for a plumped skin when you wake up.

Note : In all cases, before using a skincare product containing a retinoid, we advise you to perform a skin tolerance test. To do this, apply a few drops of the product in question to the inside of your arm, at the wrist, or behind the ear and wait a few seconds. If you observe a significant reaction, do not use this product on your face. You can turn to a bakuchiol-based skincare product, which is an excellent active ingredient for combating skin aging, generally less aggressive and therefore better tolerated than retinoids.