Is an organic sunscreen as effective as a conventional sunscreen?

Before comparing the effectiveness of organic and non-organic sunscreens, it is important to understand what sets them apart. An organic sun-care product is a natural cosmetic subject to stricter standards. Contrary to common belief, not all natural cosmetics qualify as organic. To earn this designation, a product must meet a set of criteria defined by recognized certification bodies. Among the recognized French labels is Cosmebio, an organization that certifies products according to specific standards, such as the COSMOS framework. COSMOS covers all aspects of sourcing, manufacturing, marketing, and testing of cosmetic products. For a cosmetic item, including a sunscreen, to be considered organic, it must comply with the following rules:

• An organic sunscreen must contain at least 95% naturally derived ingredients.

• 95% of the botanicals in the formula must come from organic farming.

• At least 20% of ingredients must be organic. This percentage may seem low, but it reflects the high water content in cosmetic formulas—around 70% to 80%. Water cannot be certified organic, since it does not originate from agriculture, and the same applies to minerals.

Another central difference: organic sunscreens use only mineral filters.

Organic sunscreens may only use two filters: titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO). They are as effective as organic filters and function similarly, yet mineral filters pose challenges in texture and skin finish: they are accused of leaving a white cast, unless formulated as nanoparticles, which most organic labels prohibit. This characteristic can limit suitability for deeper skin tones.

On the contrary, nonorganic sunscreens use organic filters, also called chemical filters, sometimes combined with mineral filters. With 26 chemical filters approved in the European Union and 14 in the United States, nonorganic sunscreens have access to a wider range of formulations. These filters are effective and allow light, invisible textures, but some are controversial for potential toxicity to corals, marine wildlife, or for possible effects on the human hormonal system. In addition to organic filters, organic sunscreens exclude pollutant actives, for example those derived from petroleum, such as silicones, mineral oils, and plastic polymers. Some polluting processing techniques, such as ionization or ethoxylation, are also prohibited.