Italian Helichrysum, a guaranteed anti-acne effect?

When examining the skin properties of Italian Helichrysum essential oil, it is observed that no study has demonstrated that this ingredient possesses sebum-regulating or keratolytic virtues. Therefore, it is not certain that this ingredient can act against excess sebum and the accumulation of dead cells on the skin surface, two major causes of acne development. Only anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, and antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria involved in the pathogenesis of acne, have been demonstrated.

• The essential oil of immortelle to combat acne inflammation.

  Studies in vitro have shown that Italian helichrysum essential oil possesses anti-inflammatory activity, primarily due to the linalool it contains. This compound particularly promotes the synthesis of HSP70 proteins (Heat Shock Protein). These proteins ensure the correct conformation of proteins found in the body's cells and help them protect against external stresses (heat, heavy metals...), which could potentially cause inflammatory responses.

  Furthermore, it appears that essential oil of immortelle may suppress the activity of the nuclear factor NF-κB. This results in the inhibition of the production of inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6) and inducible inflammatory enzymes (COX-2 and mPG2S). It can be hypothesized that these various properties of the essential oil allow it to alleviate the redness and inflammation characteristic of acne.

• The essential oil of Italian helichrysum could potentially protect the constituents of sebum from oxidation.

  Another interesting property of immortelle essential oil: its antioxidant action. Indeed, the skin's exposure to ozone (O3) and atmospheric pollutants contributes to the production of reactive oxygen species that interact with the lipids in sebum and trigger a cascade of peroxidation reactions. Squalene, which represents 10 to 15% of sebum, is particularly targeted and results in reactive and comedogenic by-products.

  Studies have shown that Italian helichrysum essential oil can protect the constituents of sebum from oxidation. In one such study, squalene was incubated with atmospheric pollutants. A protection of 42.1% was observed after the addition of 1% immortelle essential oil, superior to that obtained after the addition of 1% vitamin E. The protection provided by this botanical extract could potentially be beneficial in preventing blemishes.

• The essential oil of immortelle to counteract the proliferation of C. acnes.

  The antibacterial properties of Italian helichrysum essential oil have been documented in numerous studies. Some report the action of this essential oil against C. acnes, the bacterium that, by feeding on the triglycerides of sebum, secretes pro-inflammatory compounds that exacerbate acne. Immortelle essential oil can act against this pathogen by preventing it from forming biofilms and growing, with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 7.81 µg/mL. As a reminder, the MIC refers to the lowest concentration of a substance that can inhibit bacterial growth.

  Furthermore, the essential oil of Italian helichrysum appears to enhance the effectiveness of benzoyl peroxide, an antibiotic commonly used to treat acne. According to a study, the combination of benzoyl peroxide and 25% essential oil inhibits the growth of C. acnes with a MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration) of 6.25 µg/mL, compared to 31.25 µg/mL with benzoyl peroxide alone. Therefore, it seems that there is a beneficial synergy for people suffering from acne between this antibiotic and the essential oil of helichrysum.