Italian Helichrysum, a guaranteed anti-acne effect?

A very common skin condition, acne is characterized by the appearance of blemishes, such as blackheads, whiteheads, pustules, or nodules, accompanied by redness. While the face is generally the most affected area, it is not uncommon to find acne on the back, chest, or even the shoulders. The causes of acne are numerous: overproduction of sebum, insufficient cellular renewal, bacterial colonization, hormonal imbalance, stress... It's important to note that, contrary to popular belief, acne can affect all skin types, although those with oily skin are particularly predisposed.

Also known as immortelle essential oil, the Italian helichrysum essential oil is recognized for its numerous cosmetic virtues. Some even attribute anti-acne properties to it. A recent clinical trial involving 31 women seems to confirm this idea. For 28 days, participants aged 35 to 50 with combination to oily skin and comedones applied a cream daily based on melatonin, carnosine, and immortelle essential oil. Scientists then observed significant reductions of 0.9% and 15.9% in the numbers of open and closed comedones, respectively. The total number of non-inflammatory lesions was also reduced by 16.1%.

These initial results seem to indicate a certain anti-acne activity of the essential oil of Italian helichrysum, albeit weak but nonetheless present. However, caution is necessary. Indeed, the cream tested above contained more than just immortelle essential oil. Therefore, it is not certain that the improvement in the skin condition of the participants is solely due to this botanical extract. Furthermore, a single clinical trial is not enough to draw conclusions: more scientific evidence is needed.

In addition to conventional treatments, the Italian helichrysum essential oil could potentially help reduce acne, but it is not sufficient on its own. Moreover, be careful not to apply it undiluted on your pimples.

When examining the skin properties of Italian Helichrysum essential oil, it is observed that no study has demonstrated that this ingredient possesses sebum-regulating or keratolytic virtues. Therefore, it is not certain that this ingredient can act against excess sebum and the accumulation of dead cells on the skin surface, two major causes of acne development. Only anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, and antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria involved in the pathogenesis of acne, have been demonstrated.

• The essential oil of immortelle to combat acne inflammation.

  Studies in vitro have shown that Italian helichrysum essential oil possesses anti-inflammatory activity, primarily due to the linalool it contains. This compound particularly promotes the synthesis of HSP70 proteins (Heat Shock Protein). These proteins ensure the correct conformation of proteins found in the body's cells and help them protect against external stresses (heat, heavy metals...), which could potentially cause inflammatory responses.

  Furthermore, it appears that essential oil of immortelle may suppress the activity of the nuclear factor NF-κB. This results in the inhibition of the production of inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6) and inducible inflammatory enzymes (COX-2 and mPG2S). It can be hypothesized that these various properties of the essential oil allow it to alleviate the redness and inflammation characteristic of acne.

• The essential oil of Italian helichrysum could potentially protect the constituents of sebum from oxidation.

  Another interesting property of immortelle essential oil: its antioxidant action. Indeed, the skin's exposure to ozone (O3) and atmospheric pollutants contributes to the production of reactive oxygen species that interact with the lipids in sebum and trigger a cascade of peroxidation reactions. Squalene, which represents 10 to 15% of sebum, is particularly targeted and results in reactive and comedogenic by-products.

  Studies have shown that Italian helichrysum essential oil can protect the constituents of sebum from oxidation. In one such study, squalene was incubated with atmospheric pollutants. A protection of 42.1% was observed after the addition of 1% immortelle essential oil, superior to that obtained after the addition of 1% vitamin E. The protection provided by this botanical extract could potentially be beneficial in preventing blemishes.

• The essential oil of immortelle to counteract the proliferation of C. acnes.

  The antibacterial properties of Italian helichrysum essential oil have been documented in numerous studies. Some report the action of this essential oil against C. acnes, the bacterium that, by feeding on the triglycerides of sebum, secretes pro-inflammatory compounds that exacerbate acne. Immortelle essential oil can act against this pathogen by preventing it from forming biofilms and growing, with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 7.81 µg/mL. As a reminder, the MIC refers to the lowest concentration of a substance that can inhibit bacterial growth.

  Furthermore, the essential oil of Italian helichrysum appears to enhance the effectiveness of benzoyl peroxide, an antibiotic commonly used to treat acne. According to a study, the combination of benzoyl peroxide and 25% essential oil inhibits the growth of C. acnes with a MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration) of 6.25 µg/mL, compared to 31.25 µg/mL with benzoyl peroxide alone. Therefore, it seems that there is a beneficial synergy for people suffering from acne between this antibiotic and the essential oil of helichrysum.

• MANDIC B. & al. Composition, Antioxidant Potential, and Antimicrobial Activity of Helichrysum plicatum DC. Various Extracts. Plants (2020).

• LALL M. & al. Investigating the Anti-Acne Potential of Impepho [Helichrysum odoratissimum (L.) Sweet] to Fight Against Cutibacterium acnes Virulence. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2020).

• NARDA M. & al. Night Cream Composed of Melatonin, Carnosine, and Helichrysum italicum Extract Assists in Diminishing Skin Reactivity and Indications of Photodamage: Ex Vivo and Clinical Studies. Dermatology and Therapy (2020).

• KONCIC M. & al. Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility. Antioxidants (2023).