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Boutons occasionnels : 4 erreurs à ne pas faire.

Occasional Breakouts: 4 Mistakes to Avoid.

85% of people will one day be affected by acne problems. There are many misconceptions circulating about how to make an unsightly pimple disappear as quickly as possible. But what are the mistakes that should absolutely be avoided?

Mistake number 1: Popping them!

This is the most common mistake.

Even though it may be tempting, picking at and trying to remove your own pimples is a bad idea, despite their unsightly and bothersome nature. By doing so, you not only risk exacerbating them by infecting them with the germs present on your fingers and nails, leading to a secondary infection, but you also risk causing irreversible damage to your skin by leaving scars. Indeed, popping your pimples can damage the small veins, glands, and surrounding tissues, which increases the risk of scarring.

Furthermore, if pustule-type pimples are "emptied" halfway or improperly squeezed, this can trigger an inflammatory response.

Similarly, avoid using patches to remove blackheads on the nose or chin. This method is quite harsh on the skin. If you absolutely must remove them, we strongly advise you to make an appointment with a dermatologist or a professional to remove them without damaging the skin.

Mistake number 2: Applying toothpaste to your pimple.

Many people advocate for the local application of toothpaste on acne spots. This belief is based on the fact that toothpaste contains drying elements (such as alcohol, baking soda...) and antibacterial agents (formerly, triclosan) in its formula.

However, toothpastes typically have a basic pH, unlike skin, which has an acidic pH. Therefore, applying toothpaste to the skin disrupts the skin's pH balance, which can sensitize the skin. Furthermore, it's important to note that toothpastes were formulated for oral use, not for application on the skin. Applying toothpaste to the skin could therefore cause skin reactions, such as irritations or even allergies (contact dermatitis).

The beneficial effects of toothpaste on acne have not been substantiated in scientific literature. On the contrary, it could sensitize your skin and exacerbate the existing problem. A study conducted by a dermatologist even showed that the use of toothpaste in some women caused acne around the mouth.

Therefore, the use of toothpaste for acne pimples is not recommended.

Mistake number 3: applying comedogenic products.

The term "comedogenic" comes from the word "comedones" and refers to the property of a cosmetic ingredient or a cosmetic product to clog the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. However, this blockage prevents the natural evacuation of sebum, which tends to cause various skin problems, such as enlarged pores, open microcysts also known as blackheads or even closed microcysts or whiteheads.

The concept of comedogenicity is measured on a scale from 0 to 5. A score of 0 indicates that no comedones have developed, meaning the pores are not clogged, while a score of 5 indicates a high probability that the cosmetic ingredient in question will cause comedones. The comedogenicity index of an ingredient is based, among other things, on its rate of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin and its vulnerability to oxidation. Any ingredient that scores 2 or less is considered non-comedogenic. Here is a list of ingredients to avoid, which are incompatible with oily skin that experiences occasional breakouts.

  • The animal waxes: Beeswax and Lanolin;

  • Some mineral oils and waxes derived from hydrocarbons: Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceresin Wax, etc... ;

  • Some vegetable oils and butters : Triticum Vulgare or Wheat Germ Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan Oil), Persea Gratissima (Avocado Oil), Coco Nucifera or Coconut Butter, Cocoa Butter or Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa Butter), Butyspermum Parkii or Shea Butter, Rosa Canina or Rosehip Oil, Castor Oil, etc... ;

  • The gums and resins : Carageenan (Carrageenan), Algin (Sodium Alginate), xanthan, etc... ;

  • Certain fatty esters : Specifically derivatives of stearic and oleic acids or even isopropyl myristate, the unsaponifiables, squalanes and squalenes, etc...

Mistake number 4: exposing oneself to the sun without protection.

Exposing oneself to the sun during the summer season to treat acne may seem like good advice. However, the drying effect of the sun on acne is temporary. The same is true for its effect on the sebaceous glands responsible for sebum production. At the start of the summer season, sun exposure can give the appearance of beautiful skin. However, after the drying phase, the skin system reactivates to establish a reactive hyperseborrhea. Thus, the sebaceous glands produce an astronomical amount of sebum that tries to surface on the skin. As the skin is thick, the pilosebaceous follicles are blocked and the sebum accumulates in the orifices. This accumulation of sebum also promotes the development of bacteria responsible for the onset of acne. After prolonged sun exposure, acne outbreaks occur as the skin surface thins to regain its normal thickness. This is therebound effect.

Furthermore, UV rays also damage skin cells and cause mild redness or more or less painful sunburns. If we add to this an increased risk of skin cancer, deeper wrinkles, and other harmful effects, it is generally better to avoid excessive sun exposure, even if it is to alleviate occasional pimples over just a few days!

Sources

  • WILLIAMS H. C. & others. Epidemiology of acne vulgaris.British Journal of Dermatology(2012).

  • FULTON J.E. Comedogenicity and Irritancy of Commonly Used Ingredients in Skincare Products.Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists(1989).

  • DiNARDO J. C. & al. A re-assessment of the concept of comedogenicity. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2006).

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