Panthenol for the skin: what are its virtues?

In cosmetics, panthenol, or provitamin B5, is primarily valued for its moisturizing properties. This active ingredient indeed has a strong humectant power and can strengthen the hydrolipidic film present on the skin's surface. In doing so, it helps to limit water loss and prevent dehydration fine lines. Once applied to the skin, panthenol is quickly absorbed by the superficial layers of the epidermis and transforms into pantothenic acid, a molecule also known as vitamin B5.

This latter is one of the constituents of coenzyme A, a coenzyme involved in many pathways of the body's metabolism, including at the skin level. Coenzyme A is notably involved in the synthesis of fatty acids and lipids, essential components of the skin's lipid barrier. Maintaining the integrity of the lipid barrier is paramount to limit transepidermal water evaporation.

The panthenol is also used to formulate creams or balms intended for weakened skin, showing signs of heat, cuts, or irritations. This active ingredient can also be found in dermatological ointments due to its ability to promote re-epithelialization of skin tissues. Indeed, in addition to its moisturizing properties, which are necessary for proper healing, panthenol promotes skin regeneration by stimulating the differentiation of the epidermis. In vitro studies have also shown that provitamin B5 can stimulate the expression of genes coding for molecules involved in the healing process, such as CXCL10, RARRES1, MUC4, and MUC16.

The healing potential of panthenol was also confirmed in a double-blind clinical trial involving 35 patients who had received a skin graft following burns. For 14 days, they applied a formulation containing 5% panthenol or a placebo cream to the affected areas. After two weeks, researchers noted that wounds healed more quickly on sites treated with panthenol. This observation was also corroborated by measurements of microcirculation, temperature, and biomechanical properties.

The panthenol can also soothe skin inflammation and reduce itching sensations. Indeed, this active ingredient is capable of acting at different levels within skin cells and exerting an anti-inflammatory activity. Panthenol can particularly inhibit the action of several pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as prostaglandin E2, interleukin-6 (IL-6), and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), compounds involved in inflammatory processes like redness and itching.

The anti-inflammatory properties of panthenol were also highlighted in a recent clinical trial involving 62 patients suffering from facial erythema. For 30 days, they were asked to apply a cream daily that contained panthenol, niacinamide, and PEA. An improvement of nearly 30% in their redness was evaluated at the end of the treatment. Moreover, no side effects were reported. Although provitamin B5 was not the only active ingredient in the cream, this study seems to confirm its anti-inflammatory and anti-redness virtues.

Finally, it appears that panthenol has some antibacterial activity. Studies in vitro have indeed shown that this molecule can inhibit the proliferation of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Escherichia coli. While the precise mode of action of panthenol is not yet fully determined, it seems to act by inhibiting certain prokaryotic enzymes necessary for bacterial metabolism. Moreover, according to a microbiological study, provitamin B5 could act in synergy with chlorhexidine gluconate, an antiseptic, to eliminate microorganisms. Indeed, in this trial, the addition of 5% panthenol in the formulation of a cream based on chlorhexidine gluconate increased the antibacterial activity of chlorhexidine gluconate.

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• LENZ H. & al. A new topical emollient containing panthenol: Effect on skin hydration after single and extended use in healthy adults, and tolerability in healthy infants. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2016).

• KOBURGER-JANSSEN T. & al. Antimicrobial effectiveness of the combination of chlorhexidine digluconate and dexpanthenol. GMS Hygiene and Infection Control (2016).

• MOORE D. & al. Clinical and in vitro assessment of new anti-redness cosmetic products in individuals with winter xerosis and sensitive skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2019).

• ZHANG L. & al. Dexpanthenol in Wound Healing following Medical and Cosmetic Procedures (Postprocedure Wound Healing). Pharmaceuticals (2020).