What is “Tocopheryl Acetate” and what is its use?

Tocopheryl Acetate is the INCI name for tocopheryl acetate, also called tocopherol acetate. It is an esterified derivative of vitamin E, more precisely α-tocopherol, obtained by the addition of an acetate group. This chemical modification is not trivial: it provides the molecule with enhanced stability against oxidation, light, and heat, compared to free vitamin E. For this reason, it is sometimes preferred in cosmetic formulations, where the stability of actives dictates both their effectiveness and the product’s shelf life.

Unlike α-tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate is regarded as a storage form of vitamin E. Once applied to the skin, it can be gradually hydrolyzed by cutaneous esterases, releasing active vitamin E into the superficial layers of the epidermis. This conversion provides a prolonged effect of the ingredient. To investigate the transformation of Tocopheryl Acetate into α-tocopherol, researchers evaluated its fate in mouse skin. The animals received a daily topical application of a gel containing 5% Tocopheryl Acetate, compared with a placebo gel, and the resulting concentrations of free α-tocopherol in the skin were then measured.

The results show that the skin of placebo-treated animals exhibited very low levels of free α-tocopherol, reflecting the absence of an exogenous supply. In contrast, in animals receiving a topical application of Tocopheryl Acetate, the cutaneous concentrations of free α-tocopherol were significantly increased. This increase demonstrates that the esterified derivative is hydrolyzed in the skin, releasing the active form of vitamin E within the tissues, and provides experimental evidence for the role of Tocopheryl Acetate as a precursor of α-tocopherol.

From a physicochemical standpoint, tocopheryl acetate is a lipophilic molecule, which explains its strong affinity for the skin’s lipid phase and its frequent incorporation into emulsified formulations or oils. This lipophilicity also promotes its interaction with the lipids of the hydrolipidic film and the stratum corneum, key elements of the skin’s barrier function.

Thanks to these properties, tocopheryl acetate is established as a functional and stable form of vitamin E.

Tocopheryl Acetate is primarily used in cosmetics for its role as a stable precursor of the vitamin E, a naturally occurring antioxidant in the skin. Under the action of skin enzymes, it is gradually hydrolyzed into α-tocopherol, the biologically active form, which provides a sustained supply of vitamin E to the skin. Once converted into α-tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate participates in neutralizing reactive oxygen species generated by environmental stressors, notably UV radiation and pollution. By interrupting lipid peroxidation reactions, it contributes to preserving the integrity of cellular membranes and the lipids of the stratum corneum.

By doing so, tocopheryl acetate could indirectly support the prevention of skin aging.

Indeed, the oxidative stress being a major factor in skin aging, the antioxidant activity of Tocopheryl Acetate is part of a comprehensive approach to wrinkle prevention. By limiting oxidative damage to fibroblasts, collagen, and elastin, it may help slow the onset of wrinkles and the loss of firmness observed over time. However, no clinical study has yet demonstrated this effect of tocopheryl acetate, hence the need for caution. Similarly, by protecting epidermal lipids from oxidation, tocopheryl acetate would help maintain the skin barrier, another potential property that would be worth exploring in future research studies.

Like vitamin E free, Tocopheryl Acetate has an excellent safety profile.

It is considered safe for use at the approved concentrations, including for sensitive skin. To date, the scientific literature reports no cases of skin irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity associated with its topical application. Moreover, due to its low systemic penetration and its local metabolism into α-tocopherol, no specific risk has been identified in pregnant or breastfeeding women when used in cosmetic products, making it an active ingredient compatible with a broad audience.

Contrary to certain preconceived notions linking lipophilic derivatives to a risk of pore blockage, tocopheryl acetate does not exhibit any comedogenic properties. A study conducted with 15 volunteers exhibiting enlarged pores and a propensity for comedone formation showed that its application did not increase the number of blemishes, unlike octyl palmitate used here as a positive control. Thus, just like vitamin E free, tocopheryl acetate appears to be an ally of oily skin and can be used safely by this skin type.

• BHAGAVAN H. N. & al. Uptake and bioconversion of α-tocopheryl acetate to α-tocopherol in skin of hairless mice. Photochemistry and Photobiology (1993).

• DE VRIES H. & al. Hydrolysis of RRR-α-tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in the skin and its UV protecting activity (an in vivo study with the rat). Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology: Biology (1995).

• Scientific committee on cosmetic products and non-food products intended for consumers. The use of alpha-tocopherol acetate in cosmetic products. SCCNFP (2001).

• FIUME M. Z. Final report on the safety assessment of tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl linoleate/oleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopheryl succinate, dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, and tocophersolan. International Journal of Toxicology (2002).

• WU H. & al. A novel Pickering emulsion system as the carrier of tocopheryl acetate for its application in cosmetics. Materials Science and Engineering (2020).

• VIYOCH J. & al. Safety assessment on comedogenicity of dermatological products containing d-alpha tocopheryl acetate in Asian subjects: A double-blind randomized controlled trial. Contemporary Clinical Trials Communications (2021).