Self-tanner: What are the risks?

A self-tanner is a skincare product that allows for a sun-kissed complexion without exposure to potentially harmful UV rays from the sun (sunburn, accelerated skin aging, skin cancer...).

This product typically contains a self-tanning compound called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). Whether synthetic or natural in origin, this tanning agent reacts upon contact with the amine functions carried by the amino acids in the upper layer of the skin, namely the dead cells of the stratum corneum. The browning effect on the skin results from this reaction, known as the Maillard reaction.

It's important to note that without reapplying a self-tanning product, the skin's tan gradually fades, disappearing completely in 5 to 7 days. This phenomenon can be explained by the frequent renewal of the stratum corneum (the natural process of skin shedding).

The SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) has stated that DHA, found in self-tanning products, poses no health risks to the consumer at a maximum concentration of 10%. Furthermore, no scientific study has proven that DHA penetrates the skin's protective barriers. It is not contraindicated for pregnant women.

On the other hand, a self-tanner containing DHA can cause irritation if applied to sensitive areas of the body. That's why all body parts covered with mucous membranes should be free of self-tanner. Similarly, inhalation and ingestion of this type of care are not recommended. Indeed, it can cause asthma as well as DNA damage and cancer risks.

Furthermore, due to the presence of DHA, the application of this type of product can dry out the skin and increase its sensitivity to the sun. It should be noted, this characteristic is often counterbalanced in self-tanning formulas by the presence of humectants such as glycerin and/or sugar derivatives.. To combat this potentially drying effect, be sure to hydrate your skin daily, morning and evening, both on the face and body. The face moisturizing cream with 9 ingredients is enriched with hyaluronic acid and coconut oil; it's a minimalist formula that hydrates and nourishes the epidermis. Its light and non-greasy texture is suitable for dry, normal and combination skin, even sensitive ones. For the body, opt for the body moisturizing cream with 10 ingredients, which hydrates all skin types, even sensitive ones.

Also, be aware that self-tanning does not equate to sun protection. Always remember to protect your skin with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to avoid the harmful effects of UV rays.

• KOCHEVAR I.E. & al. Factors influencing sunless tanning with dihydroxyacetone. British Journalof Dermatology (2003).

• Opinion on Dihydroxyacetone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (2010).

• CIRIMIMNA R. & al. Dihydroxyacetone: An updated insight into a significant bioproduct. ChemistryOpen (2018).