Shea butter or coconut oil: which one should you choose for skin care?

Extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, native to West Africa, this plant-based butter is a fatty substance that is solid at room temperature, whose molecular complexity makes it a valuable ally in cosmetology. Its specificity lies in its exceptionally high content of unsaponifiables, such as triterpenic alcohols and phytosterols. Rich in essential fatty acids, particularly oleic and stearic acids, shea butter has a natural affinity with human sebum, allowing it to merge with the stratum corneum to strengthen the skin barrier.

On the skin, shea butter acts as a true occlusive and regenerating barrier.

By forming a non-greasy protective film, it limits transepidermal water loss, thereby helping to maintain skin hydration. Beyond its nourishing capacity, it is recognized for its soothing and healing properties thanks to the presence of vitamins A and E. It helps to calm inflammation, promote the repair of damaged tissues, and improve epidermal elasticity. It is the reference treatment for particularly dry or rough areas, such as the elbows or heels, where it restores the skin’s suppleness.

Derived from the pressing of fresh coconut pulp, coconut oil stands out from other vegetable oils due to its exceptionally high content of short-chain saturated fatty acids, and more specifically lauric acid. This fatty acid is known for its ability to integrate into the stratum corneum to strengthen the skin barrier.

The coconut oil acts primarily as a re-lipidizing and protective agent.

Several studies have also shown that coconut oil, thanks to its nourishing and soothing effects, can help reduce the symptoms of eczema. In addition, the lauric acid it contains has natural antimicrobial properties, which explains its frequent use to help fight mild infections, or more simply as an oil-pulling mouth rinse. However, the effectiveness of coconut oil comes with an important characteristic: its high comedogenic index. While it is ideal for use on the body, applying it pure to the face should be done cautiously on blemish-prone skin, as it can potentially clog pores.

The trade-off between these two ingredients depends primarily on how they are applied. When used in their pure form, their intrinsic properties lead to rather different uses: shea butter is more versatile overall, whereas coconut oil requires great caution on the face for oily skin because of its occlusive potential. However, as soon as they are incorporated into a cosmetic formula—such as a cream, lotion, or balm—the limitations associated with their raw state are somewhat reduced. In this context, the ingredient no longer acts alone: it is emulsified with water, and its concentration and effects are modulated by other active compounds. This synergy makes it possible to benefit from the nourishing properties of coconut oil, even on facial skin.

If you wish to use either one of these natural ingredients in their pure form, here are some guidelines to help you make your choice:

• Skin prone to atopic dermatitis or eczema : Pure coconut oil is a valuable ally in this case. Its high lauric acid content gives it antimicrobial properties that help limit the proliferation of Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium often involved in eczema flare-ups. It soothes itching while helping restore the skin’s lipid barrier.

• Mature and dry skin : Shea butter is the preferred option. Its high content of unsaponifiables and antioxidant vitamins (A and E) helps combat free radicals and stimulates tissue regeneration. It restores elasticity to tissues that become thinner over time and provides long-lasting protection against dehydration.

• Oily or acne-prone skin : Caution is needed with pure coconut oil , whose high comedogenicity index may clog pores and promote the formation of comedones. For these skin types, pure shea butter is a safer option because it is non-comedogenic. However, the best approach is to use lightweight emulsions, such as fluid textures, in which these fatty substances are precisely dosed to provide nourishment without an occlusive effect.

• Normal to combination skin : Coconut oil is ideal for body application to help maintain skin suppleness after showering. The denser shea butter is perfect as a targeted treatment for exposed and delicate areas, such as the hands, lips, or a nose irritated by the cold.

• EVANGELISTA M. T. P. & al. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology (2014).

• ALANDER J. & al. Shea butter extract for bioactive skin care. Cosmetic Toiletries (2015).

• GLAVAC N. & al. Vegetable butters and oils as therapeutically and cosmetically active ingredients for dermal use: A review of clinical studies. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2022).

• KAUR G. & al. & al. Cosmeceutical applications of natural oils and fats. Plant Metabolites as Cosmeceuticals (2024).

• GEW L. T. & al. A comprehensive review of plant-based cosmetic oils (virgin coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil, and jojoba oil): Chemical and biological properties and their cosmeceutical applications. ACS Omega (2024).