Is Shea Butter Comedogenic?

Shea butter is a natural fat derived from the fruit of the shea tree (Butyrospermum parkii), which belongs to the Sapotaceae family. This wild African tree begins to produce fruit after 20 years and reaches its maximum production capacity after 50 years. Shea butter is primarily made by African women. It is even nicknamed "thegold of women"; it provides an additional source of income for millions of women in certain African countries like Burkina Faso.

In its raw state, shea butter appears as a solid butter with a waxy appearance. When exposed to room temperature, it melts and its texture becomes oily. Shea butter is light yellow to beige in color and emits a slight sweet almond scent. It is concentrated in fatty acids, triglycerides, and wax esters. It also contains vitamins (E, A, D), and phytosterols.

Utilized in dermatological and cosmetic care, shea butter is known as (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter). It is an emollient that softens the upper layer of the skin. It is also valued for its nourishing and moisturizing properties. It repairs and protects the skin barrier. Shea butter also has the ability to maintain a tanned complexion after sun exposure. Moreover, it also has a functional role in certain cosmetic formulas as it helps to increase viscosity.

It should be noted, theshea butter used in our products is sourced from fruits harvested in Burkina Faso. The refining process is then carried out in Europe, following methods approved by organic certifications.

The term "comedogenic" comes from the word "comedones" and refers to the ability of a cosmetic ingredient or product to clog the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. By blocking the pores of the skin, a comedogenic compound will prevent the natural evacuation of sebum. This phenomenon can then cause or exacerbate various skin disorders, such as dilated pores, open microcysts (or blackheads), closed microcysts (or whiteheads) and even acne.

The comedogenicity of a compound is assessed on ascale of 0 to 5. A score of 0 means that no comedones have developed, indicating that the pores are not clogged, while a score of 5 means there is a high probability that it will cause comedones. To calculate this index, manufacturers determine, among other things, therate of penetrationof the compound in question into the superficial layers of the skin and itssensitivity to oxidation.

The comedogenicity index of a vegetable oil compound therefore depends on itsoxidative potential, knowing that an oxidized oil compound will naturally be comedogenic (hence the importance of paying attention to the preservation of this type of ingredient: closed bottle, protected from light and heat).

No, shea butter is not comedogenic. It is listed among the ingredients that have a comedogenicity index of 0.

Therefore, this active ingredient can be incorporated into skincare products designed for oily skin, acne-prone skin, as well as combination skin. It does not promote the appearance of acne pimples or blackheads.

• DiNARDO J. C. & al. A re-assessment of the concept of comedogenicity. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2006).