What are the potential risks associated with Centella asiatica?

Originating from Asia and Oceania, the Centella asiatica is a creeping, semi-aquatic herbaceous plant of the Apiaceae family. Also known as tiger grass or Gotu kola, it has been valued for over 2,000 years for its medicinal properties and its ability to accelerate wound healing. For example, Asian cultures applied it in poultices to treat injuries, especially the skin manifestations of leprosy. The benefits of Centella asiatica stem from its rich composition of natural bioactive compounds, such as saponins, triterpenoids, flavonoids, phenolic acid, triterpene steroids, amino acids, and sugars...

In cosmetics, the use of this plant in powdered form or as a vegetable oil dates back to the early 1970s. Today, it can be found in the Centella asiatica in serums, creams, or even under-eye treatments, where it hydrates the skin, protects it from oxidative stress and inflammation, strengthens the skin barrier and slows the appearance of aging signs.

Present in skincare and haircare products under the INCI name Centella Asiatica Extract, the maximum concentration of this ingredient is not regulated by the European Regulation on Cosmetic Products.

The Centella asiatica is a plant-derived active ingredient that is well tolerated by all skin types, including the most sensitive.

Several studies and clinical trials conducted by the IARC, with results published in the International Journal of Toxicology, have confirmed its safety in topical application. For example, a repeated patch test showed that an eye lotion containing 0.2% extract of Centella asiatica did not cause any skin irritation or contact dermatitis allergic in the 54 subjects tested. Similarly, the assessment of the irritant and sensitizing potential of a meristematic cell culture of Centella asiatica (20% in glycerol) conducted on 108 participants revealed no reaction, even when the ingredient was applied at high concentration. Finally, a mascara containing 0.5% madecassoside, one of the plant’s active compounds, induced neither skin irritation nor sensitization in 109 subjects.

Moreover, there are no contraindications to the cosmetic use of Centella asiatica. Whether the ingredient is in powder, vegetable oil, or liquid extract form, it can be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women as well as by young children, provided it remains strictly limited to topical application. Indeed, it is important to note that the oral consumption of supplements containing Centella asiatica is not recommended during pregnancy, as its safety has not been established in this context.

Good practice : Even though Centella asiatica is a highly tolerated ingredient, it’s always advisable to perform a tolerance test when using a new product for the first time. To do this, apply a small amount of the product to the inner crease of the elbow or to the wrist and leave it on for 24 to 48 hours. If you observe no signs of irritation (redness, swelling, or tingling) immediately after application or at the end of the 48-hour period, it means your skin tolerates the product well and you can continue using it.

• BRZEZINSKA M. & al. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology (2013).

• BRZEZINSKA M. & al. Centella asiatica in dermatology: An overview. Phytotherapy Research (2013).

• LIU T. & al. Therapeutic potential of Centella asiatica and its triterpenes: A review. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2020).

• KURNIATI N. & al. Toxicity studies of Centella asiatica for drug development: Mini review. Biointerface Research in Applied Chemistry (2021).

• HELDRETH B. & al. Safety assessment of Centella asiatica-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology (2023).