Spirodela in Cosmetics: Are There Risks to Be Aware Of?

Aquatic plants have been gaining increasing interest in recent years for skin care. Among them, a small water lentil has particularly caught attention: the spirodela, also known as Spirodela polyrhiza. This floating plant, discreetly evolving on the surface of fresh waters, is rich in bioactive compounds, particularly apiogalacturonans, a type of pectin. These hygroscopic molecules are responsible for the moisturizing properties of the spirodela. However, its benefits for the skin do not stop there. The water lentil is also known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory virtues. It is often found in formulations dedicated to sensitive or weakened skin. It is generally used at concentrations between 0.5 and 3%, although there is no official limit.

As of today, no specific hazards have been reported regarding the cosmetic use of Spirodela polyrhiza. Safety data, although still limited, do not reveal any sensitizing, irritating, or toxic effects of this ingredient in topical treatments. Extracts of spirodela currently used are generally well tolerated, especially when they are derived from controlled extraction processes, which eliminate potential environmental impurities. Non-independent tests have indeed shown that the water lens is non-cytotoxic, non-irritating, non-sensitizing, non-mutagenic, and non-phototoxic. Its use by infants, whose skin and bodies are naturally more sensitive, would even be possible, which attests to the high tolerability of spirodela.

Finally, this ingredient is beginning to emerge as a potential solution for eczema, an inflammatory skin condition characterized by redness and itching. Although research on this topic is also limited and requires further study, some preliminary data suggest that the moisturizing and soothing properties of the duckweed could be beneficial in combating this skin disease. This reinforces the idea that water lentil is an ingredient suitable for sensitive skin.

Based on the current state of scientific knowledge, the Spirodela polyrhiza appears to be a safe ingredient.

Even though duckweed appears to be a harmless skincare ingredient, skin tolerance is individual. Even the gentlest plant extracts can sensitize some people's skin. That's why it's recommended to test any new skincare product, especially if it contains a relatively uncommon ingredient like duckweed. Applying a small amount to a localized area, such as the crook of the elbow or the wrist, usually ensures good tolerance before widespread application. In case of immediate irritation, rinse thoroughly to remove the product. Otherwise, wait 24 to 48 hours and then check for any possible redness. If none appears, you can incorporate the product into your routine. This precaution is simple but essential and helps prevent widespread skin reactions.

• JANG S. & al. Antioxidative and Acute Anti-inflammatory Effects of Spirodela polyrhiza Extract in Human HaCaT Keratinocytes and NC/Nga Mice (2009).

• YANG W. M. & al. Improvement of atopic dermatitis with topical application of Spirodela polyrhiza. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2016).

• CLOSS B. & al. Highlighting the hygroscopic capacities of apiogalacturonans. Journal of Molecular Graphics and Modelling (2023).

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