Squalane, an active ingredient for all skin types?

The dry skin is characterized by a disruption in epidermal cell cohesion, a deficiency in natural moisturizing factors (NMF) and insufficient lipid production. These different elements weaken the skin barrier and increase trans-epidermal water loss. The skin then becomes more vulnerable to external aggressors. Dry skin manifests as tightness, a rough or taut skin texture, a lack of suppleness, scaling, fine cracks and a general sensation of discomfort.

How does squalane affect dry skin?

Squalane is an active ingredient particularly suited to dry skin due to its ability to reinforce the hydrolipidic film and limit transepidermal water loss. Derived from the hydrogenation of squalene naturally present in human sebum, it shows excellent biocompatibility and penetrates the skin easily. Nourishing and emollient, it helps restore skin suppleness, soften rough areas, and soothe sensations of tightness.

A recent study evaluated the effects of an emollient containing squalane, ceramides, and 5% urea on the skin barrier of elderly individuals suffering from xerosis, a severe form of dryness. 21 volunteers aged 60 and older applied the cream to one forearm for 28 days, using the other forearm as a control. Measurements taken before and after the protocol revealed a significant improvement in skin parameters compared with the untreated side.

These results demonstrate that squalane, incorporated into an emollient formulation, actively contributes to the restoration of the skin barrier in dry skin.

Normal skin is characterized by a good balance between water and lipids. It features a healthy skin barrier, adequate sebum production to protect the skin without clogging its pores, and a smooth, supple texture. Its mildly acidic pH (around 5.5) maintains the cutaneous microbiota balanced, while transepidermal water loss remains stable. This skin type is generally comfortable, uniform, and minimally prone to sensitivities, although it can become temporarily dry or dull under stress, climatic changes, or inadequate skincare.

How does squalane affect normal skin?

For normal skin, squalane acts like a maintenance agent rather than a corrector. It is fully suitable for this skin type and integrates easily into the hydrolipidic film to help preserve its balance without weighing down the skin. Squalane helps strengthen the barrier function of normal skin, which, even when healthy, benefits from this additional support, particularly during winter. In short, squalane helps prevent dehydration, maintain skin comfort, and support the skin’s hydration mechanisms when it is already balanced.

The combination skin to oily are characterized by increased sebum production, often concentrated in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), while the cheeks may remain normal or even slightly dry. This hyperseborrhea is sometimes accompanied by enlarged pores, a shiny appearance, and frequent imperfections.

The difference between combination skin and oily skin lies in the distribution of sebum: oily skin exhibits excessive sebum production across the entire face, whereas combination skin manifests it only in the T-zone.

How does squalane affect combination-to-oily skin?

Although the squalane has an oily texture similar to that of vegetable oils, it is in fact non-occlusive and highly biocompatible. Its saturated structure, meaning it lacks double bonds—unlike squalene’s—makes it resistant to oxidation : it therefore does not form comedogenic peroxides that could clog pores or trigger inflammation. Studies have confirmed that squalane does not induce comedone formation, even after UV exposure, unlike oxidized squalene. Although no specific clinical trial has yet evaluated its direct effect on oily skin, squalane is regarded as an ingredient compatible with combination and oily skin.

Sensitivie skin is characterized by an exaggerated reactivity to external stimuli, such as temperature fluctuations, friction, or certain active ingredients. This hypersensitivity is partly due to an alteration of the skin barrier, which allows irritants to penetrate more easily, but also to an overactive cutaneous immune system. Immune cells, notably keratinocytes and mast cells, release inflammatory mediators like cytokines more rapidly in response to stress, causing sensations of tingling, burning, or tightness. This chronic inflammatory environment contributes to maintaining sensitivity and to a reduced tolerance to cosmetic products.

How does squalane work on sensitive skin?

The squalane is well suited to sensitive skin due to its biocompatibility and excellent tolerance. Irritation from squalane is very rare, and none has been reported in the scientific literature. Furthermore, this active ingredient’s ability to strengthen the skin barrier is beneficial for helping sensitive skin better withstand external aggressors. By restoring a stable hydrolipidic film, it contributes to soothe discomfort and reduce hypersensitivity reactions.

Note : Every skin is unique; even the gentlest ingredients may not suit everyone. Therefore, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product—whether it contains squalane or not—by applying a small amount to the inner elbow or wrist and waiting 48 hours.

• MOTOYOSHI K. Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides. British Journal of Dermatology (1983).

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).

• CORK M. J. & al. The effect of an emollient containing urea, ceramide NP, and lactate on skin barrier structure and function in older people with dry skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2016).

• Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety assessment of squalane and squalene as used in cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (2019).

• TADINI G. & al. Basic emollients for xerosis cutis not associated with atopic dermatitis: A review of clinical studies. International Journal of Dermatology (2025).