Sun Capital: Understanding it better to preserve it more effectively.

Inherent to each individual, the sun capital granted at birth largely depends on the phototype. This classification, ranging from I to VI, was developed in 1785 by dermatologist Thomas FITZPATRICK and differentiates individuals based on their skin's reactivity to the sun. Individuals with a lighter phototype are more sensitive to the sun than those with a darker phototype, due to the lower amount of melanin they synthesize. Furthermore, there are two forms of melanin, produced in different proportions depending on the individual: eumelanin, which is quite dark and protective, and pheomelanin, which is lighter.

Individuals with darker skin naturally have a higher sun protection factor. However, it is not unlimited and must be preserved.

Beyond the aesthetic appeal it brings to the skin, melanin primarily plays a defensive role against UV rays and is strongly tied to the concept of sun capital. Indeed, through a process known as "capping," melanin positions itself around the nuclei of keratinocytes to protect the genetic material from the mutagenic effects of UV rays. Moreover, melanin has the ability to neutralize free radicals generated in skin cells before they can cause damage.

A study conducted by PATHAK and his team focused on phototypes and their defense system against UV rays. This research measured the minimal erythemal doses (MED) and the minimal melanogenic doses (MMD) related to the emission of UVA and UVB rays for each phototype. As a reminder, the MED is the smallest amount of light capable of triggering a sunburn after 24 hours. It measures photosensitivity. The MMD is the smallest amount of light that allows tanning. The study shows that both MED and MMD increase with phototypes. These results highlight the greater natural protection that darker phototypes possess.

With repeated exposure, the photoprotection system provided by melanin becomes less effective. Several mechanisms are at play, including the attack on melanocytes by free radicals. By destabilizing the melanogenesis process, these reactive species alter the sun capital. Its depletion leads to an increased risk of melanomas and carcinomas and increased sun sensitivity. This can result in itching and an acceleration of sunburns. The arms, hands, décolletage, and face are frequently affected.

Moreover, a depleted solar capital is often recognized by the appearance of brown spots on the skin's surface, due to the dysfunction of melanocytes associated with the exhaustion of their pigmentary potential at the level of hair follicles. Other signs of a low solar capital include telangiectasias, these small dilated vessels due to the stiffening action of UV rays, and the premature loosening of skin structures.

Regrettably, it is impossible to increase one's solar capital, hence the importance of taking care of it. It is recommended to start from the earliest age, as sun exposure during childhood is often responsible for skin cancers in adulthood. Scientists indeed estimate that the risk of melanoma increases by 75% when sun exposure begins before the age of 30. Thinner, drier, and synthesizing less melanin, the skin of babies and young children is naturally more vulnerable and must absolutely be kept away from direct sun exposure.

Furthermore, certain habits that can be adopted throughout life have a positive impact on your solar capital. During prolonged exposure, we advise you to protect your skin with covering clothing and a hat. The rest of the time, rely on a good sunscreen with a SPF suitable for your skin type and the season, and frequently reapply. To preserve your solar capital, it is also recommended to avoid exposure between 12pm and 4pm, the time of day when UV rays are most dangerous. Finally, the danger that UV tanning beds pose to the solar capital should not be overlooked.