Mandelic acid is commonly found in skin care products such as exfoliating masks, night creams, etc. What about its benefits as a hair care ingredient? Is this active ingredient also beneficial for the scalp?
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The Benefits of Mandelic Acid for Your Hair.
Summary
- Is Mandelic Acid a Useful Ingredient for Hair Care?
- Mandelic Acid – A Promising Ingredient for Treating Psoriasis on the Scalp?
- Source
Published February 16, 2023,
updated on March 1, 2024,
by
Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences
—
4 min read
Is Mandelic Acid a Useful Ingredient for Hair Care?
Mandelic acid, extracted from the bitter almond, is an aromatic alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) mainly used in skin care to improve skin texture and appearance. It is also used to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and signs of aging, especially due to its keratolytic and antimicrobial properties. To benefit from its advantages, you should opt for skincare products that contain at least 5-10% of mandelic acid. In excess, it can lead to side effects.
Unlike other fruit acids, mandelic acid is generally safe and well tolerated by all skin types. Due to its large molecular size, it enters the epidermis slowly and as a result is a better alternative to glycolic or lactic acid for sensitive skin. However, in some cases it can cause side effects such as dry skin, heat sensation, tingling, redness and itching.
Shampoo, scalp scrub.... Mandelic acid can also be used in hair care. Its gentle exfoliating properties can also help remove dandruff, excess sebum and other impurities stuck to the scalp, unclogging pores. This promotes cell renewal, i.e. the creation of new cells, and provides a clean scalp while relieving inflammation.
Mandelic Acid – A Promising Ingredient for Treating Psoriasis on the Scalp?
A recent study investigated the use of a shampoo containing ichtyol (1.2%), mandelic acid (1.2%), zanthalene (< 1%) and honeydew honey (< 1%) in the treatment of mild to moderate scalp psoriasis. Thirty subjects with mild to moderate psoriasis capitis, aged 18 to 65 years, were instructed to use the shampoo three times per week for 12 weeks. They were also instructed not to use other shampoos or other topical medications on the scalp that might interfere with the effect of the care.
Composition of the shampoo: Ichtyol has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. Mandelic acid has exfoliating effects and stimulates cell renewal - known properties that help remove dandruff. Zanthalene is an extracted ingredient derived from Szechuan pepper, a Chinese spice used to relieve discomfort by acting on neuromuscular communication within the skin structure. Honeydew honey has moisturizing, softening and soothing properties; it helps maintain a soft and protected scalp and soothes irritation.
As a reminder, psoriasis capitis is a chronic recurrent inflammatory skin disease characterized by hyperproliferation of keratinocytes, resulting in thickening of the stratum corneum, vasodilatation, increased permeability and inflammation. The affection of the scalp is a common clinical aspect of psoriasis. It is characterized by erythema (redness) and scaling (flaking), sometimes associated with a sensation of itching. Despite a wide range of treatment options, scalp psoriasis remains difficult to treat.
The results observed showed a significant reduction in the severity of scalp psoriasis. In fact, the use of the shampoo significantly reduced erythema in 87.50% of patients and scaling in 89.05% of patients. In addition, no side effects were observed or reported. The researchers conclude by suggesting that the shampoo may be an effective adjuvant treatment for modulating scaling, itching and inflammation, the hallmarks of scalp psoriasis.
Source
CAMELI N. & al. Clinical and videodermoscopic evaluation of the efficacy, safety, and tolerability of a shampoo containing ichthyol, zanthalene, mandelic acid, and honey in the treatment of scalp psoriasis. Skin Appendage Disorders (2018).
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