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Bienfaits PHA sur les cheveux.

The Benefits of PHA for the Hair.

Polyhydroxy acids or PHA are enjoying growing interest in cosmetics. They are used in many skin care products. They can also be found in care products for the scalp and hair.

Summary
Published March 11, 2024, by Sandrine, Scientific Editor — 6 min read
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A Few Words About P.H.A.

Polyhydroxy acids or P.H.A. are organic acids. Together with A.H.A. ("alpha-hydroxy acids") and B.H.A. ("beta-hydroxy acids"), they belong to the hydroxy acid family.

They are considered the new generation of AHAs and are known for their keratolytic action, meaning they remove dead skin cells (desquamation), which boosts cell renewal and restores radiance to the skin. Moreover, desquamation deeply cleanses the pores, reducing the appearance of impurities.

In addition, they have moisturizing properties. This is due to the numerous hydroxyl functions (OH-) they contain in their chemical structure. These bind water molecules and thus prevent transepidermal dehydration, strengthening the skin barrier.

Unlike A.H.A. and B.H.A., P.H.A. are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. This is because, due to their high molecular weight, they act on the surface of the epidermis. This explains their good skin tolerance compared to other acids, which in turn penetrate deeper into the epidermis.

Various PHAs are used in cosmetics:

  • Gluconolactone: It exfoliates the skin while strengthening the protective skin barrier. Due to its gentleness, it can be used every day. It also has antioxidant properties, so its use protects the skin from external agents.

  • Galactose: This active ingredient stimulates collagen production and gently removes dead skin cells.

  • Lactobionic acid: this lactose derivative has antioxidant, soothing and moisturizing effects. It softens wrinkles, fine lines, blemishes and scars. Lactobionic acid also helps protect the skin barrier.

P.H.A. is mainly used in skin care, but it also has benefits for hair.

The Effect of P.H.A. on Hair

When P.H.A. are applied to the scalp, they have the same effect as when applied to the skin. They remove dead skin cells and dirt particles from the scalp (desquamation). As a result, P.H.A. prevent pores from clogging and reduce dandruff, excess sebum and an uncomfortable, itchy feeling. This desquamation stimulates cell renewal, maintaining the health of the scalp and hair. In addition, they stimulate the natural moisture content of the scalp.

A Hair Care Product Based on P.H.A. From Typology

Our scalp scrub provides a double exfoliation of the scalp: chemically with gluconolactone and mechanically with jojoba beads and silica powder. The scalp is healthy, balanced and freed from dead skin cells. Since the P.H.A. is gentle, it is suitable for all scalp types. The mechanical exfoliating action combined with peppermint essential oil accelerates hair growth by stimulating microcirculation. Likewise, the contained essential oil of Eucalyptus globulus soothes irritations of the scalp and limits the appearance of dandruff. Finally, P.H.A. and aloe vera stimulate the natural moisture balance of the scalp. This scrub should be used on dry scalp once or twice a week before shampooing. Despite the presence of essential oils, this product can also be used by pregnant and lactating women.

Note: In case of scalp diseases (e.g. seborrheic dermatitis), you should consult a dermatologist who will prescribe appropriate treatment.

Sources

  • KSENZENKO S. M. & al. The polyhydroxy acid gluconolactone protects against ultraviolet radiation in an in vitro model of cutaneous photoaging. Dermatologic Surgery  (2004).

  • HEARING V. J. & al. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. ClinicalCosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2010).

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