Prostaglandin derivatives: what does the regulation say?

The essential points to remember.

Some eyelash serums contain prostaglandin analogues, substances originally used in ophthalmology.
These molecules can stimulate eyelash growth, but they also possess significant pharmacological activity.
Ocular adverse effects have been reported, including an irreversible darkening of the iris or a loss of periorbital fat tissue.
The SCCS currently considers that none of the analogues evaluated can be regarded as safe in cosmetic products intended to promote eyelash growth.
European regulations could evolve toward a restriction or a ban, but no final decision has yet been adopted.

4 minutes to understand your skin. Our dermatological diagnostic guides you toward the ideal skincare for your specific needs. Simple, quick, personalized.

Why do some eyelash serums contain prostaglandin derivatives?

The presence of prostaglandin derivatives in certain serums designed to promote the growth of eyelashes originates from medical research. Prostaglandins are lipid mediators involved in numerous physiological processes, including inflammation, vasodilation, and the regulation of certain ocular functions. Several synthetic analogs of these molecules have been developed in ophthalmology for the management of glaucoma, a disease characterized by increased intraocular pressure that can damage the optic nerve. Substances such as bimatoprost, latanoprost, and travoprost are thus used in the form of eye drops to lower intraocular pressure by facilitating the drainage of aqueous humor.

However, when these medications were used, an unexpected effect was observed in some patients: an increase in the length, thickness, and density of the eyelashes.

This phenomenon is related to the action of prostaglandin analogs on the hair cycle. These molecules indeed appear to promote the entry of hair follicles into the anagen phase, that is, the active hair growth phase, while also prolonging its duration. This effect has gradually attracted interest in the aesthetic field. On this basis, a drug containing bimatoprost was developed to stimulate eyelash growth in individuals with eyelash hypotrichosis. At the same time, several prostaglandin analogs began to appear in cosmetic products.

In certain eyelash serums available on the market, one can find substances such as isopropyl cloprostenate, ethyl tafluprostamide, methylamido-dihydro-noralfaprostal, and norbimatoprost. These molecules are chemically related to prostaglandins and can exert a biological activity on the hair follicles of the eyelashes.

What adverse effects have been associated with prostaglandin analogs?

Prostaglandin analogues are known to cause several ocular and periocular adverse effects.

In the medical field, these effects are well documented and mentioned in the package inserts of eye drops prescribed for glaucoma. They are also explained directly to patients by healthcare professionals. Among the most frequently reported effects is the lengthening and thickening of the eyelashes. While this effect may be sought in an aesthetic context, it is nevertheless accompanied by other, less desirable ocular changes.

A gradual and sometimes irreversible darkening of the iris has notably been observed in certain patients treated with eye drops containing prostaglandin analogs. This phenomenon results from an increase in melanin production by the melanocytes present in the iris. It can lead to a permanent change in eye color, for example from a blue or green iris to a darker shade. Other adverse effects can also occur on the ocular surface. Chronic irritation, conjunctival redness, and burning sensations have been reported in patients using these agents.

Prostaglandin analogues can also induce changes in the periocular tissues. In particular, loss of periorbital fat has been reported in patients treated with certain anti‑glaucoma eye drops. This decrease in fat volume around the orbit can lead to deepening of the eyelid crease and give the eyes a more pronounced or more fatigued appearance. This phenomenon is sometimes referred to as “prostaglandin‑associated periorbitopathy.”

≈ 10%

people treated with an anti‑glaucoma eye drop exhibit these adverse effects.

In the context of glaucoma treatment, these effects are generally considered acceptable in light of the expected therapeutic benefit. However, when prostaglandins are used in cosmetic products intended to stimulate eyelash growth, the issue of their tolerability arises in a different way. Exposure to ocular adverse effects, which may sometimes be irreversible, such as changes in iris color, is indeed more difficult to justify. This issue has been notably illustrated by several cosmetovigilance reports, including a case reported in 2025 to the French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health & Safety (Anses).

In this report, a user who had applied an eyelash serum daily for several months observed a marked darkening of the iris in one eye, as well as a loss of fat around the eye sockets, which accentuated the appearance of dark circles. Evaluation of the case led to the conclusion that a link between these adverse effects and the presence of a prostaglandin derivative, isopropyl cloprostenate, in the product’s formulation was plausible. This type of report is currently helping to heighten the attention paid by health authorities to the use of prostaglandin derivatives in cosmetic products intended for the eye area.

Note : At Typology, we exclude prostaglandin and its derivatives from our formulations.

What do scientific authorities and European regulations say today?

Several scientific bodies have raised concerns about the safety of prostaglandins when they are applied near the eye. The first warnings date back to 2018, when the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment, the “Bundesinstitut für Risikobewertung,” or BfR, informed the European Commission about the growing presence of prostaglandin derivatives in cosmetic products designed to promote eyelash growth. In its assessment, the agency emphasized that these substances have a strong pharmacological activity, which may lead to undesirable biological effects, even at very low concentrations.

Following this alert, the European Commission mandated the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) to assess the safety of several prostaglandin analogues used in cosmetic products. An initial opinion published in 2022 indicated that the available data were insufficient to draw conclusions on the safety of substances such as isopropyl cloprostenate or ethyl tafluprostamide. The committee particularly emphasized the lack of robust toxicological data needed to rule out certain potential risks. After new data were submitted by industry, the SCCS re-evaluated these substances in a more recent opinion published in 2025.

After reviewing the available evidence, the committee concluded that none of the prostaglandin analogues evaluated could be considered safe for use in cosmetic products intended to promote eyelash and eyebrow growth, including isopropyl cloprostenate, ethyl tafluprostamide, and methylamido-dihydro-noralfaprostal.

At this stage, however, these scientific conclusions have not yet resulted in an official amendment to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, which governs the placing of cosmetics on the market in theEuropean Union. Nevertheless, in light of the SCCS opinions, the European authorities could decide to include these substances in Annex II of the Regulation, which lists ingredients prohibited in cosmetic products, or to restrict their use. Final regulatory decisions are still pending.

In the meantime, some national agencies have chosen to inform the public about the potential risks associated with these substances. In France, Anses thus issued in 2025 a warning regarding cosmetics containing prostaglandin derivatives. Anses emphasizes that these adverse effects are already known in ophthalmology, but that patients treated with eye drops containing prostaglandin analogues are informed of these risks as part of a necessary medical treatment. In the case of cosmetic products, however, these effects are not mentioned on the packaging, which limits the information available to consumers.

Pending any potential changes to European regulations, the agency therefore recommends that users remain alert to the onset of unusual symptoms, such as a change in iris color or persistent eye irritation. In the event of an adverse effect, it is advised to stop using the product, to consult a healthcare professional and to report the event on the national portal for reporting undesirable health effects. Reports from cosmetovigilance indeed play an important role in identifying new risks and in adapting safety measures designed to protect consumers.