Vegetable Collagen: Is it as effective as animal-derived collagen?

Essential for the human body, collagen is a fibrous protein that provides elasticity and strength to connective tissues. It also acts as a signaling molecule and is involved in the processes of development, growth, and tissue repair. When applied topically, the collagen helps combat dehydration by forming a thin film on the surface of the epidermis, thus protecting the skin from water loss and external aggressions. It also has an antioxidant action, allowing it to limit the harmful effects of free radicals. Collagen is thus a popular molecule in cosmetic formulation.

The collagen is a protein exclusively found in the animal kingdom. However, to align with the vegan lifestyle of some individuals, a "vegan" alternative has been developed.

Respectful of health and the environment, plant-based collagen does not involve either animal exploitation or intensive fishing. However, one might wonder if this "green" form is as effective as its animal counterpart. Indeed, the plant-based collagen available today does not have quite the same structure, nor the same sequence of amino acids. It is actually glycoproteins extracted from microorganisms through biotechnological processes, meaning proteins linked to complex sugars (oligosaccharides). Therefore, it is questionable whether plant-based collagen can act in the same way as animal collagen, that is, as a ligand stimulating the synthesis of endogenous collagen by fibroblasts.

Nevertheless, according to suppliers of plant-based collagen and some independent studies, this source of collagen is believed to have good moisturizing properties and could even provide skin cells with the necessary amino acids for its biosynthesis. A study in vitro indeed showed that the addition of 4% plant-based collagen in a biological membrane resulted in a 19% reduction in water loss. Furthermore, the elasticity of the membrane, described as its ability to return to its resting state after displacement, was tested and showed an increase of 18%. However, no comparison was made with animal-based collagen.

Regarding oral intake, a recent study examined the effects of consuming plant-derived biomimetic collagen and compared them to those of marine collagen. Over 8 weeks, 90 volunteers evenly divided into 3 groups took daily doses of 5g of plant collagen, 5g of marine collagen, or a placebo. The results obtained on various skin parameters are compiled in the table below and seem to indicate a comparable efficacy between plant collagen and marine collagen.

Even though plant-based collagen appears to offer skin benefits similar to those of animal collagen, it is currently challenging to truly compare their respective efficacies due to the limited number of studies conducted on this topic.

• RODRIGUEZ M.I. Collagen: A review of its sources and potential cosmetic applications. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018).

• BHADRA B. & al. A Guide to Collagen Sources, Applications and Current Advancements. Systematic Bioscience and Engineering (2021).

• BALFAGON-COSTA A. & al. Investigation of Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, and Collagen-like Products in a Tri-Layered Chitosan Membrane for Testing Anti-Aging Skin Properties. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2023).

• CHIANG C. F. & al. Oral supplementation of vegan collagen biomimetic has beneficial effects on human skin physiology: A double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Journal of Functional Foods (2024).