Vitamin E and Oily Skin: Is There a Benefit?

The vitamin E refers to a group of eight fat-soluble molecules, meaning they are soluble in fats: 4 tocopherols and 4 tocotrienols. Classified as essential, it is not synthesized by the body but is provided by the diet, mainly in the form of α-tocopherol. Vitamin E plays a major role in individual health and is particularly involved in reducing cardiovascular risk by acting on cholesterol levels. Considered a marker of acne severity, it is also found in sebum, where it protects its composition. In adults, sebum is composed on average of 57.5% triglycerides, 26% wax esters, 12% squalene, 3% cholesterol esters, and 1.5% cholesterol.

Beyond abnormally high levels of androgens (testosterone and 5-alpha dihydroxytestosterone) that stimulate the activity of the sebaceous glands, hyperseborrhea can result from a deficiency of vitamin E in the sebum. Indeed, this antioxidant plays a protective role for squalene, one of the first lipids in the skin affected by oxidative stress and free radicals. These are capable of reacting with squalene and oxidizing it into squalene peroxide, a comedogenic compound. Studies in vitro have also shown that it triggers the release of inflammatory mediators. Thanks to its chemical structure, vitamin E can inhibit lipid peroxidation by donating a hydrogen, which stabilizes free radicals. It then becomes a free radical itself but is relatively stable due to its aromatic character, provided by its double bonds.

Furthermore, a study conducted with 100 volunteers demonstrated that exposing sebum to UV radiation equivalent to 4 times the minimal erythema dose (MED) reduced the quantity of vitamin E by 84.2%, that of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), another antioxidant found in sebum, by 70%, and only that of squalene by 13%. The same UV dose applied in the absence of vitamin E and CoQ10 resulted in a 90% decrease in the quantity of squalene. For reference, the MED is the smallest amount of light capable of causing a sunburn at the site of exposure 24 hours later.

Vitamin E thus plays a crucial protective role for the sebum, inhibiting the peroxidation of its lipid compounds and preventing their comedogenicity.