What Are Illuminating Glow Drops Made Of?

• Certain mineral oils

  Mineral oils are synthetic fats obtained by distillation and refining of fossil fuels (coal, petroleum or certain shales). They are composed mainly of saturated hydrocarbons. Among the most popular are kerosene, silicone, and petroleum jelly. In cosmetics, mineral oils are used to combat dryness and skin dehydration, and to make the skin supple. In fact, they deposit an occlusive film on the skin's surface, which limits its natural water loss and keeps it artificially moisturized.

  These mineral oils are not harmful to human health, but the manufacturing process is highly polluting. Take the example of isododecane, frequently found in illuminating face drops. This ingredient is obtained through a process known as steam cracking, which is very energy-intensive and polluting. 1 kilo of petroleum processed in this way emits 3.1 kilos of CO2!

  The mineral oils to avoid, blacklisted at Typology, are listed under the following INCI names: Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Paraffin, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum jelly, Cera Microcristallina, Ceresin, Ozokerite, Polyisobutilene, Synthetic wax, Hydrogenated polyisobutene - Isododecane, Isohexadecane, Silicone quaternium or mehylsilanol and Ceresin.

• Silicones

  These compounds are sometimes found in illuminating drops. Silicones have a worrying environmental impact. These chemically inert molecules take an average of 400 to 500 years to degrade. What's more, while not all silicones are harmful to health, and some are completely safe to use, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasiloxane (D5) are both suspected endocrine disruptors. On the other hand, cyclomethicone (a mixture of D4, D5 and D6 silicones in varying proportions) is recognized as an endocrine disruptor. It is banned in organic cosmetics and must not be marketed in rinse-off cosmetics in a concentration equal to or greater than 0.1% by weight of each substance from January 31, 2020.

• Certain antimicrobial preservatives

  To prevent bacterial growth, some glow drops contain phenoxyethanol. This preservative is easily absorbed through the skin, and is a potential irritant. Some studies also suspect neurotoxic effects.

• Certain synthetic antioxidants

  BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) may also be present in illuminating drops for their antioxidant properties. To spot them, they are generally at the end of the INCI list. They help prevent oxidation and rancidity in formulas. However, these two substances are suspected endocrine disruptors. In a nutshell, endocrine disruptors are molecules capable of deregulating the hormonal system. What's more, the A.R.T.A.C. (French Association for Cancer Therapeutic Research) classifies them as potentially carcinogenic substances. Finally, both molecules are also known to be sensitizing, and therefore a source of allergies.

In line with the precautionary principle, we exclude from our formulas many ingredients likely to present a risk to human health or the environment, keeping only the essentials. Transparency and authenticity are the order of the day, through simple, short formulas, made in France, providing answers to specific concerns, for all skin types. With this in mind, take a look at our blacklist of ingredients, which eliminates all substances potentially harmful to health and the environment.