What are "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" and "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7", the peptides that make up Matrixyl 3000?

The “Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1” is a synthetic peptide composed of three amino acids: glycine, histidine, and lysine. More precisely, it corresponds to a fragment of collagen type I, synthesized in the laboratory to mimic certain sequences naturally present in the extracellular matrix of the dermis. Its structure therefore consists of a short peptide chain (GHK) to which a lipid chain, palmitic acid, is attached. This pairing gives it the name palmitoyl tripeptide, with the prefix “palmitoyl” indicating the binding of this fatty acid to the peptide.

The addition of this lipid chain is not trivial: it modifies the molecule’s physicochemical properties. While a short peptide is inherently hydrophilic, grafting a palmitoyl group increases its lipophilicity and improves its stability in a cosmetic formulation. This modification also enhances its interaction with the stratum corneum by facilitating its affinity for epidermal lipids. “Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1” is thus classified among the peptides known as biomimetic, designed to replicate natural biological sequences.

"Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" is a synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids: glycine, glutamine, proline, and arginine (GQPR). Like "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1," this short peptide sequence is conjugated to a fatty acid, palmitic acid, forming an amphiphilic molecule. The presence of the palmitoyl group increases its compatibility with lipid environments and enhances its stability in cosmetic emulsions. This structural modification facilitates its incorporation into formulations intended for topical use.

Biochemically, “Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7” is classified among so-called signaling peptides. It draws on peptide fragments naturally involved in cellular communication processes. Like many palmitoylated peptides, it was engineered to optimize its interaction with the skin’s surface while preserving a structure closely resembling endogenous biological sequences.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 are primarily used in cosmetics for their targeted action against the signs of skin aging.

Together, they form the complex known as Matrixyl 3000, often described as a pair of signaling peptides capable of supporting the extracellular matrix. With age, the synthesis of collagen, elastin and other structural components of the dermis gradually decrease, while low-grade inflammatory mechanisms and the oxidative stress contribute to tissue degradation. By mimicking certain sequences naturally released during skin repair processes, these peptides aim to stimulate the biological pathways involved in dermal renewal and improve the appearance of wrinkles, firmness, and skin texture.

Several studies have highlighted the potential of Matrixyl 3000 to slow skin aging. One of them evaluated the effects of a palmitoyl oligopeptide complex, including peptides similar to those in Matrixyl 3000, both in vitro on fibroblasts and keratinocytes, then in vivo via a topical application. After 48 hours of treatment (0.25 to 1%), a marked increase in extracellular matrix proteins was observed. Type I collagen increased from 225.39 to 327.39 ng/mL and type III collagen from 0.66 to 1.31 ng/mL. Fibronectin also rose (400.31 to 740.20 ng/mL). On the epidermal side, keratinocytes showed a significant elevation of collagen IV (0.27 to 1.06 ng/mL) and VII (3.70 to 9.81 ng/mL).

Clinically, an 8-week application of a cream containing 5% palmitoyl oligopeptides in 30 participants reduced instrumental measures of wrinkles to 80.6% of baseline and skin roughness to 86.3%, with a visible decrease in both wrinkle length and width compared to placebo. These results suggest a coordinated effect of the peptides on the dermal-epidermal junction and matrix density, two factors directly involved in wrinkle formation.

In another clinical study, 53 women with a mean age of 62 years used a serum for twelve weeks containing 3% peptides ("Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" and "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7") combined with 0.5% extract of Grifola frondosa and 5% rhamnose. The product’s efficacy was evaluated via various instrumental measurements, and significant improvements in multiple parameters were recorded.

Interestingly, instrumental analysis also revealed a 2.4% increase in collagen fiber density, suggesting a measurable effect on the dermal matrix in just three months. Even though the formula contained several active ingredients, these results support the value of Matrixyl 3000 peptides for preserving skin collagen and improving overall skin structure.

Building on this research, a twelve-week clinical study specifically targeted the periorbital area, which is particularly susceptible to dehydration and wrinkle formation. The tested eye contour cream contained a complex combining a fermented rice filtrate, 0.0002% "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1," and 0.0001% "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7." Preliminary in vitro analyses on human fibroblasts demonstrated a significant stimulation of cell proliferation, along with a marked increase in collagen and elastin synthesis. Clinically, after twelve weeks of daily application, skin hydration, elasticity, and collagen density increased significantly.

Dermatological assessments and self-evaluations also highlighted a noticeable improvement in fine lines and wrinkles as early as the eighth week. These results suggest that the combination of the two peptides in Matrixyl 3000 can measurably improve the structural quality and appearance of thin skin in the eye contour area, with a good tolerance profile.

"Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" and "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" generally have excellent safety profiles.

Their safety was particularly evaluated through a review published in 2018 in the International Journal of Toxicology. This review reports that skin irritation tests conducted on healthy volunteers with a preparation containing 1,000 ppm of "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1," applied under an occlusive patch for 48 hours, showed no irritation. The substance was classified as "very well tolerated," without any notable side effects. Its sensitization potential was also assessed via HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test) tests. In a study conducted on 52 subjects, repeated applications of preparations containing either 1,000 ppm of "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1" or 500 ppm of "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" did not reveal any allergic sensitization. It was concluded that these peptides do not have the potential for irritation or contact dermatitis at the concentrations used in cosmetics.

Concerning genotoxicity, both peptides were subjected to the Ames test, with and without metabolic activation, on various strains of Salmonella typhimurium, a test commonly used to assess the ability of molecules to damage DNA. The results indicated an absence of mutagenic activity, even at high doses (up to 5,000 µg/plate for "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1"). Similarly, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 was classified as non-mutagenic in all tested strains, which supports a favorable safety profile for Matrixyl 3000 from a genotoxic risk perspective.

Note : As with any cosmetic ingredient, an individual reaction remains possible. It is therefore advisable to perform a test on a small area of skin during the first use of a treatment. If you observe no adverse reactions after 48 hours (redness, peeling, irritation...), you can gradually incorporate the product into your routine.

• HELDRETH B. & al. Safety assessment of Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology (2018).

• TIAN J. & al. Anti-wrinkle effect of a palmitoyl oligopeptide complex on human keratinocytes and fibroblasts through TGF-β1 pathway. Cell Biology (2020).

• WANG Y. & al. Comprehensive evaluation of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-component anti-aging topical eye cream. Skin Research and Technology (2024).

• CATALAN MARTIN E. & al. Impact of targeting collagen diversity on skin aging signs: A pilot study. Journal of Dermatology and Cosmetology (2025).