Are there any risks associated with using argireline?

The argireline, or acetyl hexapeptide-8, is a biomimetic peptide increasingly used in treatments targeting expression lines. Its unique characteristic lies in its mode of action: it partially interferes with the release of neurotransmitters responsible for facial muscle contraction, helping to reduce the depth of expression lines. More specifically, argireline is derived from the SNAP-25 protein and modulates the formation of the SNARE complex, a key element in neuromuscular communication. By limiting the transmission of contraction signals to the superficial muscle fibers, this peptide mimics—in a targeted but milder way—the mechanism observed with botox, which explains its appeal for gradually reducing the micro-contractions responsible for early wrinkles, without resorting to invasive procedures.

The available body of research shows that argireline has an excellent tolerability profile when applied to the skin.

Clinical trials conducted with this peptide have reported no irritation, allergic reactions, or signs of toxicity at the doses typically used. Its topical application thus remains considered safe under normal usage conditions. However, although clinical data are reassuring, some toxicological studies suggest caution. An in vitro study demonstrated an antiproliferative effect on various human cell lines, notably fibroblasts. However, this effect was only observed at extremely high concentrations, far above those used in cosmetic products, which severely limits the translatability of these findings to the use of argireline on the skin.

Rare reports of adverse effects associated with argireline predominantly involve practices that deviate from its usual cosmetic use, notably injections. A single case described an infection withMycobacterium abscessus on the forehead and temples after an argireline injection, presenting as inflammatory nodules, erythema, and an abscess that required antibiotic therapy. This complication is nevertheless not attributable to the effects of argireline, but rather to the invasive nature of the procedure and the inherent risk of contamination.

Regarding pregnant or breastfeeding women, no study has identified any specific deleterious effects associated with argireline. Furthermore, there is no evidence that this peptide is teratogenic, meaning it increases the risk of fetal malformations. However, in the absence of specific studies and as a precautionary measure, it is generally recommended to consult a physician.

Finally, as with any new active ingredient, it is recommended to introduce argireline gradually into your skincare routine. A patch test prior to use, carried out by applying a small amount of the product to the inner elbow, wrist, or behind the ear and waiting 48 hours to confirm no reaction, allows you to evaluate individual tolerance and anticipate potential sensitivity. This simple step helps make the use of cosmetics safer, even those known to be very well tolerated.

• WANG Y. & al. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2013).

• KIEC-KONONOWICZ K. & al. The study of cellular cytotoxicity of argireline - An anti-aging peptide. Acta Biochimica Polonica (2014).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. The peptide argireline – The importance of local application on the skin, in the light of current knowledge. Letters in Drug Design & Discovery (2017).

• HU X.-P. & al. Mycobacterium abscessus infection after facial injection of argireline: A case report. World Journal of Clinical Cases (2021).