First wrinkles: which skincare regimen should you adopt?

The first wrinkles are the result of several biological mechanisms that were previously invisible. They most often take the form of expression wrinkles, meaning they are caused by daily facial movements such as frowning, smiling, and squinting. The initial wrinkles also reveal a gradual slowdown in epidermal cell renewal. Over time, keratinocytes migrate more slowly to the surface, which alters skin texture and makes folds more visible. At the same time, the appearance of the first wrinkles reflects a decrease in the production of dermal support fibers, such as collagen and elastin, by fibroblasts.

The appearance of the first wrinkles also signals the cumulative influence of oxidative stress and daily assaults. UV rays and pollution stimulate the formation of free radicals that gradually damage skin proteins and lipids. When these reactive species exceed the epidermis’s natural antioxidant capacities, they weaken the dermal structure, trigger inflammation, and accentuate fine lines.

The first wrinkles are therefore not solely determined by age; they also reflect the degree to which the skin has been exposed to a pro-oxidant environment.

Hydration plays a central role from the first appearance of wrinkles, because a dehydrated skin more readily reveals the folds associated with skin aging. Indeed, when the hydrolipid film weakens and insensible water loss increases, fine lines deepen (often at the corners of the eyes). To compensate for this water loss and restore the skin’s moisture balance, a daily application of humectant agents and emollients is essential: glycerin, squalane, aloe vera, plant butters and vegetable oils restore the cohesion of the skin barrier and limit water evaporation. Strengthening the skin’s ability to retain water helps restore suppleness and soften the first wrinkles.

The benefit of hydration in counteracting early wrinkles is also supported by clinical data. A study involving 25 women aged 30 to 45 with mild signs of aging evaluated the effect of a cream containing 8% purple sweet potato extract, rich in antioxidants. After six weeks of daily application, analyses performed by scanning showed a significant improvement in several skin parameters, such as wrinkle depth, hydration, and elasticity. Although the study included only a single non-placebo group, these results illustrate the importance of maintaining proper hydration to support the structure of the skin when the first wrinkles appear.

Solar exposure is one of the primary factors in skin aging. By generating oxidative stress in skin cells, UV rays are responsible for damaging DNA strands, cell membranes, structural proteins, as well as certain biological processes such as melanogenesis, leading to a loss of skin firmness and to pigmentary disorders. To prevent these issues, the first step at the onset of fine lines is to apply a daily sunscreen, even when the weather is cloudy, because UV rays can penetrate clouds.

A study involving 903 adults under the age of 55 particularly highlighted the impact of SPF skin care on skin aging. Participants were randomly assigned to two groups: the first was instructed to use a daily broad‐spectrum sunscreen, while its use was left to the discretion of the second. After 4.5 years of follow‐up, blinded evaluations showed that the group using a sunscreen every day showed no detectable progression of skin aging, whereas skin age increased significantly in those applying it only occasionally. The study even reveals a 24% reduction in the progression of aging signs in the daily SPF group.

Daily application of sunscreen can not only attenuate emerging early wrinkles but also limit their progression.

Integrating antioxidants into a skincare routine becomes most relevant when the first wrinkles appear, as these actives target one of the central mechanisms of skin aging: oxidative stress. Antioxidants such as vitamin C, polyphenols, or ferulic acid, neutralize the free radicals before they attack cellular components and support the epidermal defense systems. Their regular application thus helps preserve dermal integrity and slow the progression from superficial lines to more pronounced wrinkles.

This approach is supported by clinical data. In a study involving 20 women aged 30 to 50, the daily use of a serum containing vitamin C and a peptide yielded, after several weeks, a significant improvement in skin appearance, both in terms of crow's feet and overall skin tone uniformity. According to the authors, these results are linked to the active ingredients' ability to protect cells from oxidative stress, stimulate epidermal regeneration, and inhibit tyrosinase.

Patience and rigor are essential for achieving results when implementing a new skincare routine.

Beyond topical skin care, early wrinkles also reflect lifestyle. Diet plays a crucial role: a consistent supply of natural antioxidants (red berries, colorful vegetables, nuts, green tea) helps sustain cellular defenses against free radicals, while essential fatty acids support the proper function of the skin barrier. Conversely, smoking clearly accelerates wrinkle formation by reducing tissue oxygenation, decreasing collagen production, and increasing oxidative stress.

The sleep and stress also influence skin quality, especially when the first fine lines appear. During the night, skin regeneration peaks and fibroblasts reinforce the dermal matrix: insufficient rest disrupts these biological cycles, resulting in a duller complexion and less plump skin. Chronic stress, through prolonged cortisol elevation, weakens structural proteins, heightens inflammation, and upsets the skin’s hydration balance.

Lifestyle factors (diet, sleep habits, stress management, smoking habits, etc.) serve as an important lever in supporting the skin as the first wrinkles begin to appear.

• WAHLQVIST M. L. & al. Skin wrinkling: Can food make a difference? Journal of the American College of Nutrition (2001).

• RAMOS-E-SILVA M. & al. Anti-aging cosmetics: Facts and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology (2013).

• GREEN A. C. & al. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: A randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine (2013).

• RICHTER K. & al. Oxidative stress in aging human skin. Biomolecules (2015).

• KIM B.-G. & al. Effects of vitamin C and SH-polypeptide-10 cosmetic ingredients on wrinkle improvement and skin whitening. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology (2024).

• WINAYA K. K. & al. Effect of 8% purple sweet potato extract cream on wrinkle reduction, skin moisture, and elasticity. Berkala Ilmu Kesehatan Kulit dan Kelamin (2025).