First wrinkles: the right habits.

Sun exposure is one of the primary factors of skin aging : for the lightest phototypes, it is estimated that over 80% of aging signs result from UV rays. By generating oxidative stress in skin cells, they damage DNA chains, cell membranes, structural proteins, as well as certain biological processes like melanogenesis, leading to a loss of skin firmness and pigmentation disorders. To prevent these inconveniences, the first step to take is to apply daily a sunscreen, even when the weather is cloudy as UV rays can penetrate through the clouds.

A recent study conducted by SOUTHALL involving 32 volunteers demonstrated the effects of daily application of a cream with an SPF 30 on photoaging over the course of a year. After three months, an average improvement of 25% in skin texture was measured, which increased to 40% after a year. Similarly, a positive change in the appearance of wrinkles by about 25% was observed after three months and this improvement was sustained throughout the duration of the study.

The daily application of sunscreen can not only diminish the appearance of initial wrinkles but also limit their progression.

Hydration also plays a crucial role in preventing the onset of initial wrinkles. Indeed, when the skin is dehydrated and the hydrolipidic film is weakened, small lines with a telling name appear at the corners of the eyes and lips: the dehydration fine lines. These primarily result from the gradual decrease in the production of hyaluronic acid and sebum, coupled with the increase in insensible water loss over time, due to the atrophy of the skin barrier.

In order to compensate for water loss and restore the skin's hydration balance, it is important to apply a moisturizing cream containing good emollient agents, such as squalane or glycerin, as well as nourishing ingredients, like aloe vera gel, shea butter, or even vegetable oils. In addition to limiting water loss, these active ingredients strengthen the epidermal barrier, which makes wrinkles less visible.

To combat the onset of wrinkles, it is also wise to have a daily skincare routine tailored to your skin type and its needs. While 3 steps are essential for good skin health (cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection), it is possible and even beneficial to personalize it by adding active ingredients through additional steps. In the case of initial wrinkles, the most recognized ingredients are vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, peptides, and retinoids. These components boost collagen production by fibroblasts and protect the skin from free radicals, which are involved in premature aging.

MAVON and its team recently explored the benefits of an advanced skincare routine compared to a traditional routine. The former included a cleanser, a toner, an eye contour, a serum, a day cream with SPF30, and a night cream, while the latter consisted of a cleanser and a day cream. Over a period of 4 weeks, 49 women aged between 25 and 55, divided into two groups, followed one or the other of these routines. The first group showed a significantly greater improvement in several skin parameters, including a 7.3% reduction in the depth of crow's feet wrinkles, and a 10.7% reduction in nasolabial fold depth.

Patience and precision are essential for achieving results when implementing a new skincare routine.

To anticipate and limit the appearance of initial wrinkles, as well as to take care of one's health in a more comprehensive manner, it is also recommended to maintain a balanced diet . Prioritize fruits and vegetables over processed foods, which are high in sugars and fats, to avoid the degradation of collagen, which provides skin tissues with mechanical resistance to stretching. Indeed, a study conducted with 450 individuals over the age of 70 living in various countries established a correlation between diet and the onset of wrinkles. Throughout their lives, the subjects with fewer wrinkles had followed a diet primarily composed of vegetables, olive oil, nuts, dried fruits, apples, tea, eggs, and yogurt, while those more marked by signs of aging had consumed more alcohol, whole milk, red meat, starches, soda, and sweets.

Other studies have also shown that antioxidants, predominantly found in dark chocolate, turmeric, artichoke, apple, and broccoli, as well as polyunsaturated fatty acids like omega-3 and omega-6, found in fatty fish and oilseeds, are allies in preventing skin aging. Indeed, the former eliminate free radicals while the latter reduce inflammation, an underrecognized factor of aging at the cellular level.

Tobacco interacts synergistically with UV rays in the aging of the epidermis. Numerous studies have highlighted that chronic smoking has a significant impact on skin elasticity. The reason is straightforward: the nicotine in cigarettes damages the skin's elastic fibers and thus accelerates skin sagging. Lifelong smoking therefore weakens the skin and intensifies the appearance of initial wrinkles.

Furthermore, excessive alcohol consumption is also discouraged when dealing with the first signs of wrinkles, as this behavior leads to the shortening of telomeres, the protective DNA regions located at the ends of chromosomes. As they shorten, they lose their function, which triggers the onset of cellular senescence. This process is characterized by an irreversible halt of the cell cycle, as well as specific cellular and molecular changes that notably result in a slowdown of cell renewal and the production of collagen and elastin.

• WAHLQVIST M.L. & al. Skin Wrinkles: Can Diet Make a Difference? Journal of the American College of Nutrition (2001).

• MORITA A. Tobacco smoke leads to premature skin aging. Journal of Dermatological Science (2007).

• FARWICK M. & al. Effectiveness of Cream-Based New Formulations of Hyaluronic Acid of Various Molecular Sizes in Anti-Wrinkle Treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2011).

• SOUTHALL M. & al. Daily Use of a Facial Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Over One-Year Significantly Improves Clinical Evaluation of Photoaging. Dermatologic Surgery (2016).

• MOHIUDDIN AK. & others. Skin aging & contemporary anti-aging strategies. International Journal of Clinical Dermatology & Research (2019).

• MAVON A. & al. Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019).