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Les effets du rétinol sur les peaux grasses.

What are the benefits of retinol for oily skin?

Shiny areas, enlarged pores, frequent blemishes... Having oily skin comes with numerous concerns, which few active ingredients can truly address. Is retinol one of them? Continue reading to find out.

Summary

Is retinol a beneficial ingredient for oily skin?
Sources

Published March 20, 2025, updated on April 10, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 6 min read

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Retinoids

Oily Skin

Is retinol a beneficial ingredient for oily skin?

Retinol is an active ingredient belonging to the retinoid family. More specifically, it is a precursor to retinoic acid, the biologically active form. Once applied to the skin, it undergoes two successive conversions: first into retinal, then into retinoic acid. The retinol is primarily known for its effects on wrinkles and skin sagging, but it actually has a wide range of actions making it interesting for many skin issues, such as dull complexion, hyperpigmentation, or even excess sebum.

According to scientific literature, retinoids, such as retinol, are relevant molecules for oily skin.

Indeed, after the conversion of retinol into retinoic acid, it binds to the nuclear receptors of retinoic acid (RAR) and the retinoid X receptor (RXR), leading to the formation of an activated RAR/RXR heterodimeric complex responsible for transmitting the retinoid signal within cells. This complex then binds to a specific area of DNA known as retinoic acid response elements (RARE), thus modulating cell differentiation. This point is particularly important for individuals with oily skin as it helps prevent the obstruction of pores due to the accumulation of dead cells, a risk already posed by the excess sebum produced.

It is also suggested that retinol could potentially reduce sebum production. A clinical trial was conducted on this topic in 2024 by NOWAK and his team. They studied the effects of two night creams, one containing 10% lipid nanoparticles loaded with retinol and pentapeptide-18 (referred to as ACN cream), and the other without the nanoparticles (referred to as ACB cream). These creams were distributed to 20 participants with oily and acne-prone skin. The participants applied each cream to one side of their face daily for eight weeks. The amount of sebum secreted was evaluated throughout the study on the cheeks and forehead of the volunteers.

Evolution of the participants' sebum production measured using a sebumeter.

Source: NOWAK I. & others. Lipid Nanocarriers Loaded with Retinol and Oligopeptides as Effective Ingredients in Therapies for Acne and Age-Related Skin Changes. Life (2024).

After eight weeks, a reduction in sebum production was recorded for all groups, and good tolerance was also noted. The decrease in sebum secretion was more pronounced for the cream containing retinol-charged nanoparticles. However, the formulation without nanoparticles also showed a notable sebostatic effect. Additional clinical studies on retinol, including more participants, are thus necessary to confirm its benefits on oily skin with certainty.

In vitro studies on the potential modulating effects of retinoids on sebum synthesis are more conclusive. One such study examined the effect of adapalene, a synthetic retinoid, on the production and accumulation of sebum in hamster sebocytes. For this, the levels of triacylglycerols, fatty acids found in sebum, and the production of certain key proteins of seborrhea, such as diacylglycerol acyltransferase-1 (DGAT-1), were monitored. The results show that adapalene inhibits the accumulation of sebum in the form of lipid droplets and that it reduces the production of triacylglycerols and the expression of DGAT-1 in a dose-dependent manner.

Another study, this time conducted with human sebocytes, examined the effects of a cosmetic formulation named DRTW, which notably contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, an ester of retinoic acid. However, the concentration was not disclosed. After stimulating the intracellular synthesis of lipids and fatty acids by adding 10 nM of insulin, the sebocytes were incubated for six days with different concentrations of this formulation (0.100, 0.0316, and 0.0100 mg/mL). The amount of lipids produced by the sebocytes was then measured. The results show a significantly lower synthesis for the sebocytes incubated with 0.100 mg/mL.

Évaluation microscopique de la quantité de lipides sécrétée par des sébocytes humains.

Microscopic evaluation of the amount of lipids secreted by human sebocytes.

Source: EBERLIN S. & al. Regulation of skin androgen production and sebum secretion by a dermatological cosmetic formulation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020).

Key Takeaway : Results from several in vitro studies show that retinoids, including retinol, reduce the proliferation, differentiation, and activity of sebocytes. However, in vivo evidence of their sebosuppressive effects is still limited. Their use for oily skin remains relevant, particularly due to their keratolytic action.