What are the benefits of nopal cactus for the skin?

Also called the Barbary fig cactus, nopal (Opuntia ficus-indica) is an iconic plant of warm regions, capable of thriving in both tropical and Mediterranean climates. Belonging to the cactus family, it grows predominantly in the wild and is notable for its exceptional ecological frugality: undemanding, it adapts to varied soils and requires no special maintenance. This adaptability stems from a rich biological composition, making nopal an interesting source of essential compounds for both the body and the skin.

This plant exhibits a contrasting architecture, reflecting its survival strategies. On the surface, the prickly pear cactus is protected by a dry, spiny sheath, limiting water loss and fending off external threats. Inside, its fleshy tissues act as true water reservoirs, capable of storing and retaining moisture over extended periods—an indispensable asset for thriving in arid environments. It is precisely within these tissues that native cells with noteworthy biological properties are found. In cosmetics, these cells are extracted and listed under the INCI name "Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract".

Native nopal cells are whole plant cells selectively harvested from the plant’s tissues. Unlike conventional plant extracts, which isolate only specific molecules, this approach aims to preserve the cellular integrity and the natural biological complexity of nopal. Their production relies on a controlled biotechnological process that enables the reproduction and proliferation of these cells in a regulated environment, without intensive exploitation of the plant.

• Plant selection and sampling.

  The first step is to select a nopal and perform a localized sampling. A precise fragment of the plant—typically taken from the cladodes, or pads—is collected. This method minimizes impact on the plant while ensuring access to tissue rich in actively dividing cells.

• Establishment of culture in vitro of the plant fragment.

  The sampled fragment is then placed in culture in vitro, on a sterile nutrient medium. This medium consists of water, minerals, sugars, and vitamins, supplying the cells with the necessary elements for their survival and proliferation. Successive subcultures are performed to promote cell proliferation and achieve a homogeneous, stable, and fully controlled culture.

• Elicitation of cell culture.

  An elicitation phase is then implemented to stimulate the cells’ metabolic activity. The culture is exposed to UV and visible light, inducing controlled stress. This environmental signal activates the nopal’s own defense mechanisms, leading to an increased synthesis of secondary metabolites—molecules involved in the plant’s protection and adaptation functions.

• Cell rinsing.

  After the stimulation phase, the cells are thoroughly rinsed to eliminate any residual culture medium. This step is crucial to ensure the purity of the extract and to confirm that only the cellular components of the nopal are preserved.

• Filtration of cellular biomass.

  The cells are then filtered to isolate the cellular biomass. This step yields a fraction concentrated in native cells, ready to be processed into a cosmetic extract.

• Sonication and dispersion in a vegetable oil.

  The filtered biomass is subjected to sonication, a process that uses ultrasound to disrupt cell membranes in a controlled manner. This action releases intracellular compounds, which are then dispersed in a vegetable oil, most often sunflower oil.

This biotechnological process enables the reproduction and multiplication of plant cells from a single strain in a controlled environment. It delivers clear ecological benefits by reducing pressure on natural resources while ensuring excellent reproducibility.

Still relatively unknown in cosmetics, native nopal cells are nonetheless attracting increasing interest due to their wealth of bioactive compounds.

The native nopal cells notably contain compounds with strong antioxidant activity, such as plant sterols and vitamin E. As a reminder, antioxidants are molecules capable of interacting with free radicals. Naturally generated by cellular metabolism, they can be produced in excess when the skin is exposed to environmental stressors like UV radiation or pollution. Due to their chemical instability, free radicals can react with cellular components, contributing to the progressive degradation of skin structures. Supplying antioxidants to the skin helps it combat oxidative stress, contributing to its aging. The abundance of antioxidants in nopal cells suggests they may have a preventive effect on the wrinkles and other signs of aging.

Furthermore, when incorporated into a lipid phase, native nopal cells also form part of an approach to supporting the barrier function. Their dispersion in a vegetable oil supplies the skin with fatty acids, recognized for their structural role within the hydrolipid film. This film serves as an essential interface between the skin and its environment, helping to limit transepidermal water loss and to protect the stratum corneum against external aggressions. Reinforcing this barrier is generally associated with more supple, comfortable skin.

The cells of nopal also contain polysaccharides derived from the plant’s mucilage. These hydrophilic macromolecules are known for their ability to retain water and form a light film on the skin’s surface. This film can help maintain a more stable cutaneous environment and limit sensations of tightness, especially when the skin is exposed to certain climatic conditions, such as a dry or cold environment.

Nevertheless, in the absence of clinical studies, these properties should be viewed as hypotheses based on the constituents of nopal cells, rather than as demonstrated effects on the skin.

To date, no contraindications are known for the topical use of native nopal cells.

They can therefore be incorporated into formulations designed for all skin types, without any particular restrictions. These cells are especially beneficial for skin showing a dull complexion or for mature skin, due to the presence of antioxidant compounds capable of protecting the skin from oxidative stress. Nopal cells may also be suitable for preventing skin aging and contributing to the preservation of the skin’s elasticity and radiance.

Native nopal cells can also be used by sensitive skin without any particular risk. Similarly, their use is compatible with pregnancy and breastfeeding, provided that the product formulation in which they are incorporated does not contain ingredients inadvisable in this context, such as retinoids or essential oils.

• SANTINI A. & al. Opuntia spp. : Chemistry, bioactivity and industrial applications. Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals (2021).

• FULORIA S. & al. Promising natural products in new drug design, development, and therapy for skin disorders: An overview of scientific evidence and understanding their mechanism of action. Drug Design, Development and Therapy (2021).

• RIJALALAINA R. & al. Traitement des eaux usées d’extraction minière par coagulation-floculation avec le sulfate d’alumine et l’Opuntia Ficus Indica. International Journal of Progressive Sciences and Technologies (2022).

• TAVARIA F. K. & al. A systematic review of natural products for skin applications: Targeting inflammation, wound healing, and photo-aging. Phytomedicine (2023).