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Que signifie la mention "hypoallergénique" sur un produit cosmétique ?

What does the term "hypoallergenic" mean on a cosmetic product?

When examining the packaging of a dermocosmetic product, you can see a variety of information regarding the formula and its use. Beyond the ingredients, certain claims are also present, such as the occasional mention of "hypoallergenic". But what does this mean?

What are cosmetic claims?

Cosmetic claims are the texts, images, and/or symbols adopted by cosmetology brands to describe the features of a skincare product they market. They are used as a means of communication with users, particularly by becoming advertising tools. Cosmetic claims are regulated by the European Regulation No. 655/2013. Cosmetological products placed on the market must comply with the six common criteria established, namely:

  • Compliance with legislation;

  • The truthfulness;

  • The compelling evidence;

  • The sincerity;

  • Equity;

  • Making an informed choice.

The term "hypoallergenic" is among the claims that allow consumers to make an informed choice when selecting a formula. However, a detailed explanation of this term should be visible on the product insert to avoid misunderstandings.

"Hypoallergenic", what does it mean?

In simple terms, the label "hypoallergenic" means that the skincare product has been formulated in a way to minimize the risk of skin allergies. Therefore, it contains a reduced number of sensitizing substances or is completely devoid of them. There is no zero risk for the user in terms of allergies, but it is minimized. In a way, the term "hypoallergenic" means that common allergens are absent from the skincare product's composition. These include, among others, acrylates, parabens, bronopol, nickel sulfate, benzophenone-3, synthetic fragrances, alcohol, dyes, sulfates , and phenoxyethanol. Moreover, it's not only synthetic ingredients that are excluded. Certain essential oils can also be particularly allergenic and will not be present in a so-called "hypoallergenic" formula.

Please note, this information does not eliminate the risk of allergies. Indeed, allergenic substances and allergic reactions can vary from one person to another. For instance, some individuals may be allergic to ingredients considered harmless, such as sweet almond oil.

To determine if a skincare product can cause an allergic reaction, it is necessary to perform a skin tolerance test on a small area of your skin. If you are aware of a specific ingredient that triggers allergies for your skin, check for its presence by reviewing the label and, more specifically, the I.N.C.I. list.

Take note! The term "hypoallergenic" is different from "dermatologically tested" care. Indeed, "dermatologically tested" indicates that the formula has undergone rigorous testing to prove that it does not have any adverse effects once in contact with the skin. It is not designed to minimize the risk of allergies.

How is the hypoallergenicity of a skincare product typically evaluated?

Before a skincare product is launched on the market, at the stage of the finished product, patch tests on human volunteers are conducted. As a reminder, animal testing has been prohibited for several years now.

These sensitivity tests are known as HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) or RIPT (Repeat Insult Patch Test). They are typically conducted on a panel of 50, 100, or 200 volunteers who repeatedly apply patches containing the product in question to the skin on their backs over a period of 6 weeks.

If reactions occur, they are observed, recorded, and interpreted by a dermatologist to confirm or deny the allergenic nature of the product.

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