What is a hair oil?

What is a hair oil?

For centuries, it has been believed that the long-term regular application of hair care oil from the lengths to the tips can prevent hair loss, add shine, and prevent hair graying. This belief has been capitalized on by the cosmeceutical industry. Easily accessible and inexpensive, hair oils have thus flooded the cosmetic market due to their potential beneficial effects on hair. A wide variety of oils have been used and new oils appear every day. But what exactly is a hair oil?

Summary
Published January 20, 2022, updated on August 20, 2024, by Stéphanie, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 7 min read

What do we mean by "hair oil"?

Thehair oil is a type of oil-based care product typically used for aesthetic reasons, either to enhance the condition and overall appearance of the hair. Whether used alone or in combination, the various types of oils used are often intended to impart shine and luster to the hair, strengthen the hair shaft, reduce hygral fatigue (repeated swelling and drying) that can damage the hair, or provide a protective layer against the penetration of harsh substances (e.g. surfactants in shampoo) by filling the space between the cuticle cells. In addition, they are also believed to be a means of providing essential nutrients to the hair that are stripped away by frequent washing.

While it is possible to opt for mineral oils, vegetable oils extracted from a variety of plants, flowers, or fruits are more commonly used. Moreover, mineral oils have not shown an affinity with hair proteins and are not capable of diffusing into the hair shaft.

It's important to note that the application of oil to hair is an ancient practice derived from Ayurvedic medicinal traditions, used for thousands of years in India to strengthen and moisturize hair. Similarly, it has also been reported that ancient Egyptians seemed to pay particular attention to their hair, as evidenced by the numerous images of hairdressers depicted in ancient relics. Archaic texts from this era containing information on the "recipes" used by the Egyptians to combat baldness have also been discovered.

Who is hair oil suitable for?

It is often thought that hair oils, due to their emollient properties, are primarily reserved for dry and damaged hair. Similarly, it is believed that short and fine hair should not use them either. However, whether it's to reduce frizz, define curls, decrease the formation of split ends, or prevent breakage, hair oil comes in several forms that can be used by all hair types.

Misconception : It is commonly believed that hair oils can weigh down and make the hair greasy. However, this is not entirely the case, unless applied in large quantities on a daily basis. Furthermore, oils, no matter how natural they are, can yield different results for everyone. For instance, those with fine and/or oily hair should be more cautious.

How to choose your hair oil?

While everyone can benefit from the advantages of hair care oils, the type of hair oil chosen should depend on your hair type and your hair needs, from the texture and thickness of your hair to the porosity and level of damage as it does not affect all hair types in the same way. Indeed, each hair oil holds a unique chemical composition and texture, as well as specific benefits. Below you will find a list of commonly used hair oils.

OilsINCI NameBiochemical CompositionBenefits for the HairDirections
Sweet Almond Vegetable OilSweet Almond OilMonounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, linolenic acid), saturated fatty acids (stearic acid, palmitic acid), vitamin EPhotoprotection, emollient, moisturizing, structuring, detanglingDry hair, textured hair, damaged hair
Argan Vegetable OilArgania Spinosa Kernel OilPolyunsaturated fatty acids (linolenic acid, linoleic acid), monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid), saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid), sterols (schottenol, spinasterol), polyphenols, tocopherols, triterpenic alcohols, squaleneSebum-regulating, hydrating, nourishing, hair loss preventionDry hair, oily hair, dull hair, textured hair
Safflower Vegetable OilSafflower OilSaturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid), monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (α-linolenic acid, linolenic acid), tocopherols, tocotrienolsMoisturizing, hair loss prevention, antioxidantDry hair, damaged hair, colored hair, thin hair
Coconut Vegetable OilCocos Nucifera (Coconut) OilSaturated fatty acids (myristic acid, capric acid, lauric acid), monolaurin, phenolic acids, tocopherolSaponification agent, antibacterial, antifungal, emollient, smoothing, conditioning, strengtheningDry hair, split ends, damaged hair
Jojoba Vegetable OilSimmondsia Chinensis OilFatty acid wax esters (11-eicosenoic acid, cis-octadec-9-enoic acid, docos-13-enoic acid), fatty alcohols (docos-13-enol acid)Moisturizing, anti-parasitic, antibacterial, sebum-regulating, strengtheningOily hair, textured hair, dry hair
Olive Vegetable OilOlea Europaea Fruit OilArachidic, linoleic, palmitic, oleic acids, sterols, carotenoids, triterpenic oils, phenolic compounds, flavonoids, aliphatic aldehydes, lignans, secoiridoidsEmollient, photoprotection, antifungal, antioxidantFine hair, textured hair, dry hair, damaged hair, colored hair, split ends
Castor Vegetable OilCastor Seed OilGlycerides of isoricinoleic acid, ricinoleic acid, dihydroxy-stearic acid, saturated fatty acids (stearic acid, palmitic acid, eicosanoic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, linolenic acid)Moisturizing, nourishing, antifungal, stimulating hair growthTextured hair, damaged hair, split ends
Sesame Vegetable OilSesamum Indicum Seed OilSaturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid), monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid, gondoic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, linolenic acid), sesaminol, lignin derivatives (sesamin, sesamolin), sesame lignans, sesamolinol, tocopherol, tocotrienolAnti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotection, antibacterial, moisturizing, emollient, stimulation of hair growthDull hair, textured hair, dry hair, damaged hair, colored hair, split ends
Sunflower Vegetable OilHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) OilMonounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid), saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid), carotenoids, tocopherolsMoisturizing, conditioning, nourishing, protective, anti-inflammatoryDry hair, damaged hair, irritated scalps, dull hair
Les principales huiles capillaires utilisées.

It is suggested tooil your hair at least twice a week, ideally the day before you plan to wash your hair.

Sources

  • DIGHE A. & al. Hair oils. The Chemistry and Applications of Sustainable Natural Hair Products (2016).

  • WILLIAMS L. L. & al. A glimpse of Ayurveda – The forgotten history and principles of Indian traditional medicine. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine (2017).

  • ARGHYA A. & al. Hair oils: Indigenous knowledge revisited. International Journal of Trichology (2022).

Diagnostic

Understand your skin
and its complex needs.