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Abies Alba Seed Extract

What is "Abies Alba Seed Extract" and what is its utility?

"Abies Alba Seed Extract" is the I.N.C.I. designation used to refer to thevegetable extract from white fir seeds. This extract helps to reduce hyperpigmentation for a more even complexion, and aids in preventing signs of skin aging.

The white fir and its plant extract, an overview.

TheAbies alba, commonly known as the Vosges fir or white fir, belongs to the Pinaceae family. It is primarily found in the deciduous forests of Southern, Western, and Central Europe (Alps, Pyrenees, Vosges...). It is one of the most majestic trees on the continent. For centuries, the essential oil of white fir has been used in medicine for its benefits on fever, arthritis, muscle pain, and respiratory problems. In cosmetics, its extract helps toreduce hyperpigmentation for a more even complexion, and helps prevent signs of skin aging.

The white fir is sought after for its resin rich in turpentine, its needles, and its buds. The needles are the source of an essential oil rich in active ingredients, while the buds are utilized in the form of an aqueous extract, also known under the I.N.C.I. name of "Albies Alba Seed Extract".

How do we obtain the extract from white fir seeds?

Firstly, the manual harvesting of fir tree seeds involves climbing up to over 30 meters into the tree, which makes the extracts particularly valuable. Subsequently, the buds undergo an enzymatic extraction that takes place in several stages: crushing of the seeds, agitation, enzymatic reaction, centrifugation, clarification.

At Typology, the white fir buds used are sourced from France, specifically from the Vosges forest.

Theaqueous extract of white fir obtained is a clear brown liquid. Its concentration is not regulated in a cosmetic product, but it is recommended to incorporate between 0.1 and 2%.

Plant extract from white fir seeds, the benefits for the skin.

Thanks to its biochemical composition, theextract of white fir seeds provides several benefits when applied to the skin:

  • Combatting hyperpigmentation.

    As a reminder, hyperpigmentation is a disruption in the pigmentation process. The melanin, the pigment responsible for the natural coloration of the skin, is overproduced in certain areas, leading to the appearance of brown, red, or pink spots that can sometimes be unsightly. These spots vary in size and affect the uniformity of the complexion. Theextract of white fir seeds is capable ofinhibiting tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The equation is simple: less melanin means fewer pigments, fewer brown spots, and a more uniform complexion.

  • Reduce inflammations.

    The extract of white fir buds diminishes redness,as well asmarksleft by blemishes : we refer to this aspost-inflammatory erythema. Indeed, studies have shown that this plant extract inhibits the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1 (IL-1).

  • Preventing the signs of skin aging.

    An in vitro study on the monolayer culture of dermal fibroblasts shows that a 0.5% concentration of white fir seed plant extract inhibits up to 62% of the concentration of beta-galactosidase. This compound is produced by fibroblasts and is considered a marker of cellular senescence. In biology, senescence is a state of the cell characterized by an irreversible stop of the cell cycle, and therefore associated with the aging of the organism and more specifically of the skin.

In which Typology skincare product can one find the plant extract from white fir seeds?

The antioxidant botanical mist with green tea hydrosol is a portable treatment to be applied to the face at any time of the day. The antioxidant and rebalancing actives present in this mist help to defend the skin against free radicals, in order to restore radiance and uniformity to the complexion.

Note : This treatment also containsessential oil of bitter orange petitgrain, and should not be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women.

Sources:

  • YANG S.-A. & al. Radical scavenging activity of the essential oil of silver fir (Abies alba). Journal of Clinical Biochemistry and Nutrition (2009).

  • WILLFÖR S. & al. Chemical composition and content of lipophilic seed extractives of some Abies and Picea species. Chemistry & Biodiversity (2016).

  • ZORKO M. S. & al. Efficacy of a polyphenolic extract from silver fir (Abies alba) bark on psoriasis: a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Pharmazie (2018).

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