What Is “Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract” and What Is Its Use?

Calendula officinalis or “garden marigold” takes its name from the Latin “soisequier” which means “which follows the sun” because its flowers open and close according to the sun. This plant belongs to the Asteraceae family and flourishes mainly in Central Europe, particularly on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, as well as in Southwest Asia. It comes into bloom from spring to early winter. The calendula flower gives off an intoxicating scent that is easy on the hands to touch. In cosmetics, its oily macerate is the ally of dry and reactive skins thanks to its softening and soothing properties.

Called “Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract” according to the INCI nomenclature, the extract of garden marigold is obtained by solar maceration of the plant’s fresh flowers in vegetable oil (generally sunflower oil). This oily macerate is rich in essential fatty acids (linoleic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid), triterpenic esters (faradiol esters), carotenoids (beta-carotene, flavoxanthin, lutein, lycophene) and flavonoids (lupeol, quercetin).

Calendula extract is a clear to slightly cloudy, dark yellow to bright orange oily liquid. Its smell is vegetable and it has a dry touch. Very little comedogenic, it does not clog pores and is suitable for both dry and combination skin.

Sensitive to oxidation, it is best kept in a cool place, away from heat and light in an amber bottle.

There are no contraindications to the cosmetic use of “Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract”. However, people allergic to Asteraceae should seek medical advice before use. Pregnant women and young children can use it.

This cosmetic ingredient is well tolerated by all skin types and has multiple benefits:

• Stimulate wound healing and prevent skin photoaging thanks to its antioxidant power.

  Rich in anti-oxidant flavonoids, calendula oily macerate fights against free radicals, and in particular superoxide radicals and hydroxyl radicals. As a reminder, free radicals are unstable molecules generated by all sorts of factors (sun, pollution, cigarette smoke, stress etc…). Consisting of a single electron, they are very reactive and attack the cells and healthy proteins of the skin, accelerating its aging. The flavonoids contained in calendula oil macerate give electrons to deactivate free radicals by making them more stable and therefore less reactive. Thus, this ingredient delays skin aging and protects the skin from external aggressions.

  In addition, during an injury or a burn due to overexposure to the sun, for example, the production of free radicals in or around the wound bed can contribute to delaying its healing by destroying lipids, proteins, collagen, proteoglycan and hyaluronic acid. Studies have shown that the antioxidant activity of calendula allows the preservation of viable tissue and thus facilitates healing. Thus, the oily macerate of calendula  plebiscites to soothe sunburns as well as possible skin irritations.

• Inhibit the degradation of collagen and prevent skin slackening.

  Collagen is a fibrous protein that makes up the connective tissue in the dermis, the deepest layer of the skin. It ensures the firmness of the epidermis. However, with age, collagen synthesis is slower and its content decreases: the skin becomes looser and wrinkles deepen. Researchers have shown the ability of calendula extract to inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) on the degradation of collagen.

• Prevent dandruff thanks to its antimicrobial properties.

  Thanks to its antiseptic power, calendula makes it possible to fight against the bacterial proliferation at the origin of the films and irritations of the scalp. It is therefore popular for cleansing the scalp, thus restoring the strength of hair fibers.

This ingredient is particularly recommended for dry and sensitive skin, as well as for irritated scalps with or without dandruff. Calendula is also an excellent ally for repairing broken and damaged nails and soothing sunburn. It can be found in facial skincare products (masks, creams, serums, lip balms, eye contour gels, serums, make-up removers); body care products (hand and foot creams, shower gels, lotions, balms, massage oils, sunburn balms, solid soaps) as well as in hair care products (shampoos, conditioners, masks). In addition, “Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract” is often used in baby care products. Soft and soothing, this ingredient can be used to wash, massage and even calm the redness of infants.

• LEACH M. J. Calendula officinalis and wound healing: A systematic review. Wounds (2008).

• WINDSOR J. L. & al. Effects of Calendula officinalis on human gingival fibroblasts. Homeopathy (2012).

• ALMEIDA I. F. & al., Anti-inflammatory activity of Calendula officinalis L. flower extract. Cosmetics (2021).