In the INCI list of certain cosmetic products, you may come across the term "CI 15850". But what is it? Why use it in skincare? Here's the essential information to remember about this ingredient.
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What is "CI 15850" and what is its utility?
Summary
Published December 30, 2022,
updated on February 5, 2024,
by
Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences
—
3 min read
CI 15850: What is it?
CI 15850 is a synthetic monoazo red dye. In the INCI lists, it is also known under several names, such as Red 6, Red 6 Lake, Red 7, and Red 7 Lake. It is subject to purity criteria specified in Commission Directive 95/45/EC. It is notably found in foundations, lipsticks, lip varnishes, hair dyes, blushes, and other makeup products.
Chemical formula: C18H12CaN2O6S
Molecular Weight: 424.45 g/mol.
Solubility: Insoluble in water.
Organoleptic properties: Red powder.
How is CI 15850 produced?
Synthetically produced, CI 15850 is typically provided in the form of calcium salt. It is prepared by azo coupling of calcium hydroxide-3-(methyl-4-sulfo-2-phenylazo)-4-naphthalenecarboxylate-2 with accessory coloring materials associated with water, calcium chloride and/or calcium sulfate.
What does CI 15 850 do in skincare?
The CI 15850 is used in the formulation of a variety of cosmetic products as a pigment. It serves toimpart a brownish-reddish-orange coloration to the cosmetic products that contain it.
The CI 15850 is present in some of our tinted lip balms and tinted lip oils.
CI 15850: what about its safety profile?
The CI 15850 presents no danger. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) of the European Union conducted a risk assessment of this dye in May 2004 and concluded, based on the standard sensitization tests performed, that CI 15850 is not considered to be sensitizing. However, rare cases of contact allergies to a lipstick containing CI 15850 have been described in a Japanese report.
Sources:
KANIWA M.-A. & al. Allergic pigmented lip dermatitis from lithol rubine BCA. American Journal of Contact Dermatitis (1994).
Directive 95/45/CE de la Commission (1995).
NAKAMURA A. & al. Application of sensitive mouse lymph node assay for detection of contact sensitization capicity of dyes. Journal of Applied Toxicology (1996)
JOHANSEN J. D. & al. Colourants in transferable picture tattoos for the skin. Contact Dermatitis (2005).
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